Thirteen years ago in 2013 I made a pilgrimage with my sister and some of her friends to Israel, Palestine and Jordan. That year the Western Christian Churches marked Easter on March 31, but the Orthodox Easter was celebrated May 5. The Catholic Church in the Holy Land that year celebrated Easter with the Orthodox calendar that year. I know this, since we were at the Church of the Annunciation in Nazareth and got caught in the middle of a Palm Sunday procession on Sunday, April 28. Palm Sunday is recognized for the reading of The Passion. The reading focus' on the last days of Christ's life, with a focus on his suffering, starting with Holy Thursday and ending with his placement in the tomb. In the world today there is still suffering. This year Catholics in the Holy Land are celebrating Easter on April 5, so they celebrated Palm Sunday on March 29. As I found out, it was a different kind of celebration. There were two Palm Sunday clashes that are worth mentioning. But, first some history.
| 2013 Palm Sunday Mass at Church of the Nativity Author photo 2013 |
Most Christians, at least those that are left, in the Holy Land are Palestinians. The Palestinian Christians are of varied sects, Orthodox, Catholic and a variety of Protestant Churches. They are less than two percent, or about 200,000 persons, of the Palestinian population in Israel. Their population is shrinking, but are mainly concentrated in Jerusalem, Bethlehem and Ramallah. To me they are a forgotten population. They find themselves caught in the middle between the conflicts of the Israeli government and the Muslim Palestinians. They are being pushed out by Israeli settlements in and near Bethlehem.
| Israeli Settlements in Palestine, author photo 2013 |
St Catherine Catholic Church still bear scars from a 2002 altercation when 50 or more armed Palestinians had sought sanctuary to avoid capture by Israeli defense forces. Israel attacked, but did not dislodge those seeking sanctuary. A few months later a negotiated settlement occurred. I saw the bullet holes in the church facade from that action.
| Exterior of St Catherine's Church, when there you can see bullet holes from 2002 Author photo 2013 |
For centuries, Palm Sunday mass has been held at the Church of the Holy Sepulcher in Jerusalem, where tradition holds, is the place of burial and resurrection of Christ. The Holy Sepulcher is a historic site containing the last five of the 14 stations of the cross within its footprint. Since, the start of the Netanyahu-Trump War with Iran, public masses have not been held in the Church. However, Cardinal Pizzaballa, the Patriarch of Jerusalem asked to say a private mass at the Church. On his way to the Church, not part of a procession or any ceremonial act, he was stopped and told his access would be barred. This was the first clash. The Israeli government says it was for his own good, and, with the complex situation in old Jerusalem, there is no way to address a mass casualty event. Having been in old Jerusalem, I can appreciate the difficulty of addressing a mass casualty event in that area. However, I have not seen a report that they were expecting such an event. You can read an account of the Israeli government stoppage here. Israel did say that Iranian missile fragments had fallen within meters of the church, and that Iran is targeting Christian holy sites. Hence, the explanation of why the Cardinal was barred entry.
| Cardinal Pizzaballa (center) in Detroit, Dec 22, 2025 Courtesy of Mary B Hovel |
If Israel was expecting a Muslim radical to bomb the church, there is a bit of irony as the keys to the Church, by tradition, are held by two Muslim families. For over 800 years, everyday, they jointly unlock the doors at 4 am, and then lock them again at 7 pm.
| Church of Holy Sepulcher, Author photo 2013 |
When I visited the Holy Land, there were, so I was told, many fewer pilgrims than usual due to the ongoing divisions between the Palestinians and Israel. With Orthodox Holy Week for part of journey, there were a decent number in Jerusalem and Bethlehem, but further out of that area there were few. For lunch at varied restaurants we were the only group in large dining halls filled otherwise with tables and empty chairs. Many Palestinians depend on tourism for their livelihood and one could see the shops hardly had anyone visit them, even in Bethlehem and Jerusalem. I suspect it is even much worse today. Travel to Israel is currently rated high risk by the State Dept. A few years ago was the Gaza war, and now this war. Not a welcoming situation for tourists
War is high risk. It is also highly intractable, as Trump may be finding out. On Palm Sunday there was was a second clash, this time of words coming from Cardinal Pizzaballa's boss. Using Isaiah 1:15 Pope Leo had this to say during his Palm Sunday liturgy:
Brothers and sisters, this is our God: Jesus, King of Peace, who rejects war, whom no one can use to justify war. He does not listen to the prayers of those who wage war, but rejects them, saying: “Even though you make many prayers, I will not listen: your hands are full of blood” (Is 1:15).
This shows that the Catholic Church may actually have learned something in the past thousand years, and that in fact church teaching does develop. Leo's own predecessors issued bulls to galvanize the Crusades in the Holy Land. The first papal bull was issued to start the second crusade. Leo's comments certainly rebuke Secretary of Defense, oops, now War, Pete Hegseth who used his Christian faith to justify the war, and even offered a prayer, written by a Pentagon Chaplain, on 3/25 to that effect. It may also have been directed to Russian Orthodox leaders who view have called the war in Ukraine a Holy War due to what they view as the decadent west. You can read a news report about the Pope's statement here, or read the full address here. Pope Francis often talked about WWIII being played piecemeal. This conflict certainly seems indicative of his claim. Evidence is coming out that Russia and perhaps China are aiding Iran, and now other terror forces, think Houthi rebels, who do well at asymmetric warfare may enter the conflict.
During my 2013 visit I thought how odd it is that the Jesus, the Prince of Peace, came into this earth in the Middle East. There are clashes between Jews and Muslims, Muslims and Christians, but also between Sunni and Shia Muslims. Some experts have referred to the violence in the Mid-East as a clash of cultures or a clash of civilizations. Warfare in this area goes to before Christ was born. There were rivalries between empires like the Akkadians, Babylonians, Egyptians, Hittites, and Persians. Varied clashes in the region may go back as far as 24 BC when one group went around conquering smaller city-states. The Middle East has been a clash of cultures since before the start of the Neolithic period and the advent of agriculture. Jericho (about 16 miles east of Jerusalem) is one of the earliest and most significant locations for the start of agriculture. The start of civilization, allowed by agriculture, has not been able to stop the brawls of the region.
| Sign in Jericho on invention of agriculture and animal husbandry 2013 photo by author |
This clash of cultures or civilizations seems part of the regions DNA. The Middle East is a bridge between Europe, Asia and Africa. It has been important for trade, culture and conflict for centuries. Iran has stopped the flow of 20% of the world's oil by containing the strait of Hormuz. The message Christ brought to the world two centuries ago just does not seem to get through. Palm Sunday was changed this year for those in the Holy Land due to the wider war and this led to the two clashes that became evident on Palm Sunday.