Mining to Packing

It was the fall in the 1880 when a 33 year old small statured man left behind the brilliant colors that enveloped the Towanda mountain range in northeast Pennsylvania to go deep underground into the wet, dark abyss of Barclay Mountain. The dank coal seam walls swallowed the light of his lantern, as he entered this hostile and demanding environment with an oil lantern, pickaxe, shovel, and lunch pail. This was not his first or last trip into this mine. This man is my great grandfather John Charles Sweeney. The only known photo, circa 1900, is a family group photo. He is in a black suit (see below photo, man kneeling) and appears to show that he weathered well his years of hard labor. To his left is a young boy, who is my grandfather, Leo Francis. John C Sweeney joined many other Irish immigrants in the mines of northeast Pennsylvania. The 1880 census simply identifies his occupation as "mining coal." This is a post of how the John C Sweeney family moved from the small towns of northeast Pennsylvania and their mines to the large city of Chicago and its packing houses, which allowed the family to step up socio-economically.

Sweeney Family Photo, c 1900
Family archives, from JR Sweeney

Mining was the industry in 1880 of the company town known as Barclay, PA. Today, some refer to this region as one of "Endless Mountains." It was one of five company towns in that area that housed mine workers and provided for some of their needs. In 1889 Pennsylvania produced almost 82 million tons of coal, outpacing the next closest state by almost 70 million tons. At the time few likely knew the Barclay mine was past peak in production as it closed about 1890. John Charles turned 33 years old on 24 June 1880. John C along with other men and boys dug coal for the nation's growing industries, to provide fuel for cooking and heating homes in the United States, and to power the locomotives of the railroads. Coal was as necessary to the nation in that era as oil and natural gas are today. At least one of John's sons, starting about age 12, would join him in the mine; a not uncommon occurrence for this era. A quick look at a few pages of the 1880 Barclay census confirms a number of children working about age 12 or 13, many in the mines. 

Barclay, PA mines (Partial map)
Courtesy of Penn State University

After Barclay, the family moved to Arnot, PA, another coal mining town 25 miles to the west, where my grandfather Leo Sweeney (my mom's dad) was born in 1893. The Arnot coal was of high grade for coke furnaces in the production of steel. The family, in 1899, would find themselves in Chicago.  The family lore is that John James, the oldest son of John C and his wife Bridget (nee Cleary), was sent to Chicago to look for work opportunities. This likely occurred sometime after 1896 (birth year of youngest child Dora, who was born in Arnot), but before 1900. A poem by my grandfather indicates it happened during a strike, so the trigger may have been the 1899 strike at the Arnot mines that started in May and involved 1,000 men (Labor History, and Leo F Sweeney, undated poem). 

Erie Railroad Depot, Arnot, PA, C 1908
Courtesy of Blossburg.org

Family lore provides that John James was about 12 at the time of his trip to Chicago, but born in 1877, that would put his move to Chicago in 1890. It is possible that John James did move at age 12 or 13, and lived with his aunt and uncle in Chicago for several years before the rest of the family moved. The poem, however, says that "a short while later, John wrote and said 'come out,' the prospects here are very bright, we'll succeed without a doubt." I suspect, the lore of the Sweeney family over time conflated the age John entered the mine (age 12 or 13) with his trip to Chicago, which additional evidence points to as being 1899. The year 1899 for arrival in Chicago corresponds, not only to the year of the strike, but also to the timing on John C's 1914 death certificate which indicates he lived in Chicago for 15 years. The family was recorded in the 1900 census as living in Chicago, with John C's occupation identified as a laborer. Two days after the recording of his 1900 census information he would be 53 years of age. He would have had backbreaking, hard labor in a Chicago packing/slaughter houses which, at the time, made Chicago the butcher of the world.  

Barclay Mine
Courtesy of Smithsonian Institution

Over twenty years ago PBS had a several part documentary on the city of Chicago. I missed most of the series due to night meetings at work, but I would get filled in by a coworker. Chicago, is known as the Windy City, not for the gusts of wind off Lake Michigan, but for its politicians. It is also known for being a city of muscle to go with the bravado of its political class. Famous for for its pizza, architecture, gangsters, the "Chicago accent", and of course what has been the Packers favorite whipping boy for over twenty years, Da Bears, all of which add to its storied past. Al Capone grew up near my mom, and my Uncle Joe once dated his niece. Likely realizing she had a great deal to pray for, Al's mother was a daily mass attendee. Chicago is also known for its former stockyards and meat processing when it was the butcher of the world. An October 1, 2024 post about my mother noted how her family story is an American story of immigration, melting pot, and changes in occupations from laborers to white collar. From the PBS report (and other documentaries) one would never think working at a packing house would allow for economic advancement. 

Arnot--Blossburg and Barclay Mine areas
Courtesy of Penn State University

The PBS story, is similar to other documentaries and books (The Jungle by Sinclair Lewis) which told of how bad the Union stockyards were. The smell, the working conditions, injuries, the often immigrant labor in the butchering sections for low wages all are part of the plot. If a person left employment, there was another to quickly fill the spot. I recall mentioning the PBS story to my Uncle Joe Sweeney, my mom's youngest brother. Uncle Joe had a way of putting things into perspective, and he noted to me, during the PBS run, that it was the stockyards that allowed the Sweeney family to better provide for the family and which in turn provided their children better opportunities. In other words, for at least the Sweeney family, the packing houses provided advancement from the unskilled labor class. It is too bad PBS failed to even mention the economic advancement to be had from the packing houses, perhaps because it was not part of their agenda. Credit for expanded opportunity, which led to advancement, also goes to the educational, employment and other economic opportunities in Chicago compared to the small mining towns of Pennsylvania. Harvard economist Edward Glaser, in his 2008 book Triumph of the City, makes a compelling case about the wealth and prosperity generated by cities for lifting varied classes of people, and in so doing destroying long-held myths and misconceptions of urban areas. 

Market St, Anot, PA c 1910
Courtesy of Joyce Tice website

The Chicago Union Stockyards, at over one square mile in area, opened on Christmas day 1865. It used principles of the assembly line process to butcher a variety of animals, although mainly cattle and hogs. For example, it would take a farmer, so a documentary said, eight to ten hours to butcher a cow, but the stockyards could do it in 39 minutes. Often cattle would be loaded for transport to the eastern markets, and as ice cooling and refrigeration advanced they slaughtered more and more in Chicago sending animal parts to the east for refinement to meet local markets, or sale. Large packing houses like Amour and Swift processed meats for sale around the nation--think hot dogs. These large packers were said to be predatory by under cutting independent butchers unless they sold the meat products from one of those large suppliers. It brought affordable meat to a demanding public. Daniel Boorstin, writes that  "In the Old World, beef was the diet of lords and men of wealth. For others it was a holiday prize. But American millions would eat like lords." (Boorstin, The Americans) While the documentaries complained about the packing house use of pretty much all animal parts as human food, fertilizers, cosmetics, or other products (the byproducts is where the money was made), that only seems a sensible approach, particularly in a world today concerned about waste. It makes no sense to diss a company for using the whole animal, the use of the whole animal should have been applauded. 

Chicago Union Stockyards, 1890 
Courtesy of Library of Congress

After arriving in Chicago, John C and perhaps some of his children, found employment in the packing houses/stockyards. John C as a mid-fifty year old laborer must have found the work trying for an older man, although he likely thought the work was better than that of being stooped over in the dismal coal mines of Arnot. His son John, in 1900 is listed as a file clerk, but in Pennsylvania he worked in the mines as a boy and the story is he was "small enough to slip into the narrow shafts and place dynamite." (John Coffey, grandson of John C, in a letter to Dominican order regarding his aunt Sr. Emmanuel's family) The dangers, smells, odors of the packing house may have been less than the dangers of the mines, which often included death to some miners and their sons. In 1900 no occupation is identified for the oldest child, Mary. However, son Charles (b 1881) is a foreman in a cooper factory. Son Joseph (b 1885) is a laborer at 14 years of age. Daughter Ann (b 1883) sews. The remaining four children starting with Lucy (b 1887) on down are attending school.

Chicago Union Stockyards, cattle pen, 1900
Courtesy of Library of Congress

The packing houses were horrendous, but they provided an opportunity enhanced by the big city itself. My Sweeney family lifted themselves out of the mines of Pennsylvania. From John C's death certificate we can see that by 1901 he was a foreman at the packing house. He held that position until 1908, when at, or about, the age of 61 he took a job as a file clerk in the packing house. This moved him off the slaughter house floor with its blood, guts and grime to an office position. He held this position at the time of his death at 67 years of age. He died 15 years after the 52 year life expectancy of a male in 1914. While the documentaries focused on the labor in the slaughter houses and the stockyards, they said little about the professional classes: accountants, logisticians, financial analysts, transportation economists, lawyers, purchasing and sales agents, typists, stenographers, and clerks required for such a large operation. Records, of purchase and sale, transport costs, where items came from and went, and a whole host of other incurred costs required the services of an educated and developing white collar class. A diversified economy provides for a greater emphasis on an educated class. This is part of the triumph of the city--an ability to gather, educate and skill the increasingly diverse labor pool demanded by industry. John C, moved from the slaughter house floor to a file clerk. We should remember, however, that any honest labor should not be denigrated, and it was hard honest work that John C provided for much of his life.

Chicago Stockyards, 1935; etching
Courtesy of Smithsonian Institution

John C found opportunity in the often denigrated packing houses, which saw him open greater opportunity to his children and grandchildren, and their ability to join the upwardly mobile nature provided by the raw capitalism present in Chicago at the time. As the nation grew, so too did the economic status of many of its public. This also occurred in the Sweeney family. The oldest son John, who started working in the mines, became the owner of several independent meat markets, although he lost all during the Great Depression. My grandfather, Leo was a bank clerk (WWI draft card 1917), and a real estate agent (1920 census) before being employed by his brother John.  He was employed by his brother in the wholesale and retail meat industry. John released my grandpa his job during the Great Depression, and that occurred on one Christmas Eve. Given  that Leo is shown as a meat wholesaler and retailer in the 1930 census, I wonder if it was the Christmas Eve of 1930, but I don't know for sure. Family letters indicate that Grandpa Leo was securing a good cut of beef to bring to Sun Prairie for Easter dinners in the 1950's, showing that his knowledge of the industry stuck with him. Later, John J would find work with a meat wholesaler, while my grandfather moved on to other endeavors including working for the Latz Foundation to publish a book on the Rhythm Method of birth control. 

Book published by Latz Foundation
My grandfather worked for Latz Foundation
in publishing this book

The intractable rhythm of time has changed the landscapes that would have been recognized by John C over 120 years ago. The small town of Barclay is no more, rendered obsolete when the mine closed, its only remaining feature is an unkempt cemetery containing some decaying headstones and the bodies of individuals who died during their time in Barclay, including fathers and sons lost in mining accidents, showing, in part, why the average male life expectancy was and only 44 years of age in 1890. John C's infant son, Michael died in 1880, but is buried at Saints Peter and Paul Cemetery in Towanda. Infant deaths also added to the low life expectancy. Arnot still exists, but it is a remnant of its former self. The expansive Union Stockyards and packing house complex of Chicago's southside, which occupied over one square mile of territory, has been redeveloped. It is said a few small meat packers are in the area, but slaughtering is now done elsewhere. Such is the way of the world, where change seems to be the only constant. Change is what occurred in the Sweeney family, as they moved from laborers to clerks to managing editor (my Uncle Joe Sweeney), sales representative (my uncle Leo Sweeney), and flight services (my aunt Connie). My mom was educated to teach English, but marriage and kids came along, placing her on a different, but more important position of mother to ten. 

Google Map of Leo Sweeney dwelling at 
7335 South Prairie Ave, Chicago 
and Al Capone residence 

As I wrote this, it occurred to me that just 110 years and two weeks ago, my great grandfather John Charles died (Oct 2, 1914). I look not just at how the landscape has been altered over time, but also how the human condition in the family has changed. I was able to retire at age 60. As I write this, at age 66, I am still younger than great grandpa John C was as a file clerk at the packing house when he passed away at age 67. in 2023, a US male's average life expectancy is now just over 73 years. I recognize that John C had a much more difficult life than I have had. He came over from the old sod, and while mining was difficult work, it would have better than starvation due to genocide of the British Empire. He was able to allow his children, even with the great depression, grandchildren and great grandchildren to live a better life than he had endured. 

Present day Google image of 7335 S Prairie Ave, Chicago

The decision of John C Sweeney and, independently, Bridget Cleary, or their parents, to emigrate to America, was crucial. John and Bridgett's joint decision to move from rural Pennsylvania to Chicago opened up opportunity and allowed the family to advance economically. My grandfather Leo, and his wife Amanda, of limited means, but greater opportunity, were able to put their four children through Catholic grade, high school and college. They received an education necessary for advancement. Education was an important value to the Sweeney family. Life would be completely different for John C's descendants than for himself. His move from the mines to the packing houses may not have represented a major change in economic status at first, but it opened up opportunities better found in the growing city of Chicago than the lost mining towns of Pennsylvania. The move from mining to packing, and rural to urban, turned out to be good for John C's descendants, and I believe for him and Bridget. 

Note: Sometimes his name appears as John J, but I chose to use John Charles, as John C is what is on his death record.

For additional information on the Barclay and Arnot (Bloss) mines see: https://sites.rootsweb.com/~pasulliv/SullivanCountyHistoricalSociety/Barclay.htm

https://www.joycetice.com/jmtindex.htm

Eyebrows

Due to my feet problems I continue to attend the Fun and Fitness swim class. This three day a week class is mainly comprised of senior aged woman most of whom are older than I, some by over two decades. You can read a post about the class here. Last week Monday, I was at the class, and swam for the first half of the 45 minute session. Then the instructor arrived for the fitness portion of the class. The class occupies two swim lanes each side of the bulk head so four lanes total. It is usually mundane, although the other side of the bulk may be more lively as that is where most gossiping occurs. The instructor never gets in the water, but demonstrates from the bulkhead. I am not sure how the conversation on the other side of the bulk head started, but it was about eyebrows and eyebrow treatment. 

Fun and Fitness
courtesy McFarland Thistle

I am guessing one woman noticed the eyebrows on the instructor. It is not unusual for small talk to begin the class, and the instructor with her varied colored hair, mainly blues and purples, often draws rave reviews from the many popcorn heads in the class. They get into discussions about when, and to what color, she will have for her hair. If a woman did notice the eyebrows on the instructor, I have to give her credit for having good eyes, or perhaps a woman would notice something that I pay little attention. I don't think I would notice such a thing, and if I did it would not register in my mind. Does it really matter? What I found out is that for many women eye lashes matter. The discussion was so in depth and went on so long I wondered if I would get to use the foam dumbbells that I even picked out of the bin. 

McFarland pool

The women got into a discourse on what is called microblading and later powder brushing, both treatments to eyebrows. The instructor apparently had micro blading accomplished on her eyebrows in 2017, and the treatment lasts about 5 or 6 years, so she was over do. A friend of her daughters used her to hone her skill on the technique and it did not turn out well. She went to her normal stylist who said she could not correct the situation with microblading, but would do powder brushing. The discourse between the instructor and the senior pool crowd went on for several minutes over the benefits and disadvantages of each technique. What I found out is that microblading costs $495. A few ladies thought she said $4.95, and they were thinking how that was a good deal until it was restated as--Four hundred ninety-five dollars. Powder brushing is $100 less, but it also lasts about 5 to 6 years.  

The details of each I did not understand. Heck, my 66 year old male mind had trouble comprehending the terminology of microblading and powder brushing for eyebrows. The former sounds like small roller blades, and the latter like a Bob Ross painting technique. I had to repeat the words to myself and even ask Barb, one of the swim ladies (who I think colors her hair a deep red), to make sure I was correct. Near the end of the class I could tell it was something that really did not matter because I had trouble with it registering in my mind. Yet, I knew this would make a great blog post, if I could correctly remember the terminology. 

McFarland pool

When I get home from swim my wife asks, "How was swim?" and my usual response, "Oh, fine.", but I that Monday I had a bit of information I could share with her. "So," I said, "I heard a ten minute discourse on eyebrow techniques." I then mentioned "microscrapping" which was supposed to be microblading; this showed how little the terms stuck in my mind, and I then mentioned powder brushing. I told her one of the ladies suggested that it was too bad my wife was not present, to which I said, she would have dismissed it once she heard the cost. Sure enough, I was correct. 

My wife informed me about different women we both know and the techniques they use on their eyebrows, including a woman who has had her eyebrows tattooed on her head. I think that means she is stuck with her hair color. I am not sure what it is, but men lose the hair on their head and women seem to lose their eyebrow hair. My wife had never heard of microblading, but two neighbors she walks with had heard of it. 

The lifeguard, a male college student at UW, just simply shook his head at the conversation and had a few snickers. This had one of the woman comment how fortunate he is to hear about female eyebrow grooming techniques. I think he would rather have avoided the conversation, but the life guard stand is right there, and with all the females in Fun and Fitness gathered around to hear and discuss, and me floating nearby waiting for the exercise portion to begin, his concentration was mainly on the group. Switch of life guards occurred during the conversation, as he had a class to attend, and the pool manager took his spot. The manger recounted to me how this reminded him of years ago when women would get their hair done and then come to class and cover their hair with the old style plastic shower caps. Leave it to female logic to have your hair done and then go to the pool. I wonder if they were trying to impress the other ladies at the time, without saying, but showing a fancy hairdo. 

McFarland pool

I am not sure if most men are like me, but if so, I wonder why women go to so much trouble if the eyebrows are hardly noticed? I have been told it helps make them feel better about their self. I was recounting the story to a couple last Wednesday, who missed Monday, and the wife said, why should women put on makeup when men don't do it?  Although she later said, there are some men that use makeup. What is it about women and their eyebrows, or lack thereof?  I do know if you lack eyebrows it is probably noticeable, but really is all that fancy work required?  Although, if microblading lasts 6 years, that is less than $83 a year, so not too big an investment.

I never got to use the dumbbells that day. We did, finally, get to the exercises, but the instructor brought Menard "grocery" bags for us to fill up and lift out of the water. I am not sure how many gallons the bags hold, but a gallon weighs 8.34 lb, and when filled it was not easy lifting over the head. So much for picking out a nice set of dumbbells. As for grooming, I don't really care to know about microblading or the powder brushing. If the ladies start to discuss grooming techniques of points south, I think I will swim to the other end of the pool. 

Unless otherwise noted, photos by author, spring 2024

Mother of Boomers

On this date, one hundred and one years ago, October 1, 1923, my mother was born. Born in Chicago, she was proud of her paternal Irish heritage. It was almost like her mother's German heritage did not much matter, and that she was 100% Irish. Mom died on 23 Sep 1980, less than a week shy of her 57th birthday. Even though she struggled with varied health issues for the last years of life, her death was still a shock. She was the mother of ten baby boomers.

Freshman Yearbook College photo, 1942 

I was in graduate school at the UW, and after a slate of classes that Thursday in 1980, I made my way to St Mary's Hospital where mom had been for a couple days. There was the usual hospital smell, and scurrying of nurses, nurses aids and even some doctors. I once saw a doctor show on television, and while some medical professionals had a conversation at the nurse's station, the background had a group of people walking to the right as you viewed the screen. Then, the same group, in reverse order, walked to the left. I guess it was to make the hospital seem busy. A real hospital seems much more chaotic. I went up to floor she was on only to find her room empty. I looked around, and all the nurses were busy, as was the nurses station. I walked around a bit to see if she switched rooms. Not seeing her, and not wanting to impose on the busy staff I called home using a pay phone, remember this is 1980, and my Dad answered the phone. I asked if mom had gone home, and that when he simply said, "She died today." It was a long drive home in rush hour traffic. Something in my mind told me to call home, and  I was glad that I did because it was better hearing the news from dad, even it was over the phone, and not from a nurse or someone at the nurse's station. My subconscious self seemed to know what had occurred before my conscious self did.

1945 College Senior Year photo

Born at Englewood Hospital, her original birth certificate has all boxes filled but the one for her given name. Perhaps her parents were  not expecting a girl and they did not have a girl's name picked out, or could not agree on one. Irish tradition would have had her named after her mother's mother, i.e. grandmother Reiner, which would be Franziska (Frances). Her mom was German and probably could care less about the Irish tradition. Being Catholic, they chose to honor the Virgin Mary. Where her middle name, Jean, came from, I do not know. A supplemental birth certificate was filed a few days later providing the name: "Mary Jean."

Mom's Parents, Leo F Sweeney and 
Amanda (nee Reiner) Sweeney
Parents of both were immigrants to the US

After the birth of seven boys my mom had her first daughter, Mary Bernadette. Not thinking that the man provides the X or Y chromosome, if he even cared, the story is my dad said to my mom, "So, you went and had a girl." A second girl would follow, and then the family was complete with the baby brother, Peter. 

Mom and Dad Wedding photo

Having ten children, including eight boys, the first four were born within four years and ten months of each other, two of my most vivid recollections revolved around her doing laundry and cooking. It seemed that every day, there was laundry, particularly with non-disposable diapers at the time, which was a good amount. I figure well over half of mom's married life involved a child in diapers. Laundry was hung out on the line when weather permitted. Mom used wooden poles in the middle of each line to help hold the line up from the weight of the clothes. The cotton rope always seemed to stretch. There were piles of laundry for each child on the family room table. She was amazingly quick and good at folding clothes, a technique I have never learned well.

Mom and son Steve, c July 1948

Then there was food, which was piled endlessly on the table. The custom made kitchen table was wider than normal to help hold all the food. The milkman would daily bring gallons of milk. My neighbor complains about the amount of food her now sophomore high school son eats, and another only a few years away, but that is little compared to the appetite of the Hovel boys. There are appetites, and then there are Hovel appetites. My mom once told me that the hardest adjustment she had to make as the older boys moved out leaving fewer kids at home, with the rest off to college or grown, was cooking for a smaller number of people. 

As a mom she was always worried about her children. Even when they were adults. One Sunday morning at breakfast my mom was concerned that my brother John had not come home that night. I was out Saturday night with some friends at Lums on Madison's east side, and who walked in but John and a girl, who would later become his wife. Mom was really fretting over little Johnny (John, who was the fourth in line, had a nickname "Runt" given to him by the three older siblings). I did not really want to say anything, so as to get him in any trouble, although he was in graduate school at the time. But, she went on and on. I realized I had to put her mind at east. So, under my breath I said "I saw him last night." I was asked what I had said, so I then said: "I saw him late last night at Lums and he was with a girl." That put an end to the conversation, except for my Mom saying, "Well, then, I guess he is okay." I was looking down to grab part of a pancake so not sure if my dad smiled and my mom frowned. 

My older Hovel siblings
Back (l to R): Mike, Joe, Steve
Front (l to r): Leo, John

With all of the antics completed by my older siblings, mom had pretty much experienced everything.  Luckily, Sun Prairie was still a small town. On the other side there was boring me. My twin brother, Greg, would tell his two children "Uncle Tom" bed time stories. From what I can recall they clamored for the bed time stories about Uncle Tom so they could get fast to sleep. This shows the range of personalities in the family.

Having watched my wife parent our two boys over the years, and yes worry about them, I have come to the conclusion that mothering is more similar than dissimilar, even with generational difference. A mother's worry about her children never ends. 

Mom at Christmas 1949
with sons Joe and Steve

Mom was raised by a first generation German-American mother, I have to think things were pretty strict in the Sweeney household. Yet, I never knew mom to be overly strict. I wonder if by the time the later children came along she was worn out and the young kids, when I was old enough to observe and recollect (although my twin brother Greg remembers pretty much everything from his birth on), got away with more than we middle children did. I do recall I was not allowed to do homework in front of the TV, it was often done in the bedroom, or, less frequently, at one of two built-in desks in the family room (dad designed the house which was occupied in April 1958). My parents had no qualms about our youngest brother doing his homework in front of the TV. He did have good grades which perhaps made them wonder why bother. I am not sure of the cause and effect since he was also the baby of the family. Showing that demoralizing nicknames were not limited to our older brothers, one of us, or in concert with each other (that being me, Greg and Mary B) gave our youngest sibling the nickname of Nene Tarde (late baby). Often shortened to Nene. I have to think that households with a limited number of children miss out on some antics that occurred in families with more children. It was not unusual for a person in our family to have more than one nickname--one provided by the older boys, and another from the younger half of the family. 

My mom's parents (as did my dad's) saw that all their children received a college education. My mom attended high school at St Mary's in Prairie du Chien (where she was valedictorian) and then Mount Mary College in Milwaukee. Both girl only schools. One thing I recall, was how well my mom shot the bow and arrow, a skill from her days at girl schools. It was a golden era of Catholic education, when nuns and priests were abundant which reduced the labor costs for educators. My mom was destined to be a teacher until that day when my dad proposed. She met my dad while visiting a classmate from St Mary's, my dad's sister Anita. She was likely in Sun Prairie to visit her aunt who taught 7th and 8th grade at Sacred Hearts in Sun Prairie, and took the time to visit Anita at the farm just north of town. 

Mom was winner in K of C High School
essay contest. This May 1941 letter is from the dean at
Mount Mary to KC State Deputy thanking for notification
Mom would end up attending Mount Mary, and graduated in 1945

What occurs to me is that this is a quintessential American story. My mom's grandparents immigrated to the US from the 1850's to the 1870's; this made her parents first born Americans. The marriage was between a 100% German woman and a 100% Irish man in Chicago shows the American melting pot. Mom lived and grew up on the southside of Chicago, in an area populated by Al Capone's mother, and made famous by James Farrell's Studs Lonigan trilogy. Her paternal grandfather worked in a packing house (the meat industry which received much disdain), and her dad for his brother, a butcher, which show the nation at the industrial revolution. Her dad would be released from that position during the great depression, and would later help publish the first book on the Rhythm Method of birth control. The American story continues with a former GI, from a farm family, and now in the professional class, in southern Wisconsin marrying a big city girl. They had a large family at a time when large families, while not the norm, were not necessarily uncommon. This mirrors the change from the farm economy to the professional and service economy. The marriage produced ten baby boom era children over almost the full range of baby boom birth years, as the children were born from January 1948 to September 1964. 

Sweeney Family photo, c 1910
Mom's grandpa is man kneeling in black suit, her dad is boy to the right
 Mom's grandmother is sitting with white shirt. 

Of the ten children all but one would grow to adulthood. The remaining nine all married, and all the boys would have children of their own. My brother Leo, who was between John, and me and Greg, died at the age of four when hit by a car along USH 51 in McFarland. My mom may have never really recovered from this tragic event. The loss and anguish was expressed in letters to her youngest brother and to this day evince the depth of her immense heartache. As a mother she experienced the range of emotions from the death of one child, to seeing the marriage of four sons, and the birth of one grandchild. 

Mom grieved and worried, but she always persevered and worked for the betterment of the family. Regardless of the antics of many of my siblings, or perhaps in spite of that, she raised children that would all be good productive members of society. She sacrificed for her children. There may be no greater love than that of a mother for her children. And, in this case, all of her baby boomer children, three of whom are in heaven with her and dad.

Photo credit: Yearbook photos from Mount Mary College Yearbooks. All others from family archives.

Reclamation

It is not unusual to see weeds growing up in cracks of roads and sidewalks. Nature has a way of making itself known, and the weeds that grow in such seemingly inhospitable locations show how resilient nature can be to man's activities. I have seen parking lots over taken by weeds and trees, and trees growing out of former buildings, and in gutters and on roofs. A slight buildup of detritus and it is amazing what seeds can do. Nature has an ability to reclaim land, in many cases with little assistance by humans and perhaps even in spite of humans. 

Marl Lake, August 2024

We ended our 2024 camping season last week at Hartman Creek State Park. We visited nearby Marl Lake on three different days during our trip. It is a 12 or so minute bike ride from the campsite, using a short cut. Marl Lake is a rather unique lake, due to its geology which affects its lake color. It is a small, but deep lake, with clear green-blue colored water. I wrote about the lake last month, which you can find here. This post will discuss how, what is known as the Whispering Pines Park, has been reclaimed by nature. This peninsula (bordered on two sides by lakes, and a third by a creek, survived the last major tree cutting in the state in the 1800's, so its white pines, which give rise to the name, are tall and magnificent. 

Main trees at Whispering Pines

White pines dominate, as a view of the air photo taken in the winter can show. Originally private property, mainly owned by the Hyldegaard family and later sold to the state. When in private ownership by the Hyldegaard family it was open to the public as a park. The property came under state ownership in the mid 1970's. With the private ownership the land contained several buildings, including a museum, souvenir shop, home and its related outbuildings. There was also a former fishing resort, later acquired by the Hyldegaards. Today, the only building on the site is a toilet building, although some old foundations are visible. We noticed old foundations near Pope Lake, which may be related to the old fishing resort on Pope Lake.  

Board discussing Resort at Whispering Pines

The state tore the buildings down at Whispering Pines, and nature has been left to take over. The Friends of Hartman Creek have placed a variety of markers and some benches, and the hope is, on the fairly level ground that makes up much of the top, to place a handicap accessible path. The lake sits well below the top, as fifty-five stone steps take one down to Marl Lake. The historic markers provide an explanation of the geography and the history of the site. On some areas of the flat top of the property, old paver stones remain visible on the path that circles near the top edge. It is more natural than developed as large pines have fallen, and no effort has been made to even chain saw the down trunks covering the paths.

Fishing Resort discussion

As I moseyed on some of the paths, I was struck by how little evidence of the prior development and structures existed, and how so much seems to have been reclaimed by nature, with little help from man, other than removal of the buildings. Yet, the effect of man is prevalent in some of the vegetation. For example, cedar trees were planted along the lake edge by the Hyldgaard family. There are also some non-native flowering catalpa, which may have come from bird dropped seeds from their location in other yards.

Pope Lake

While the white pines dominate, their are other trees: red maple, birch, tamarack, some red pine, and some hemlock on the north face slope of Pope Lake. The tall canopy limits sunlight to the ground and so there is some, but limited ground or understory vegetation in some areas. Reclamation is not limited to land, but also is part of our waterways. Lake Erie was an industrial waste ground for many years, and was able to clean itself after the implementation of the clean water act which reduced pollutant loadings. The Madison lakes benefitted by the installation of sewage treatment which resulted in the Nine Springs Treatment plant which was built and is maintained by the Madison Metropolitan Sewerage District. The sewer plant changes to adapt to a changing regulatory environment. 

Marl Lake, view of bottom, Aug 2024

Change in our landscape is all around us. We see decay and we see rebirth. It is part of the pattern of life. Nature is resilient, as is shown by Marl Lake, and those small plants that eek out a living on a roadway. Nature, however, likely has limits, as do all of us, and it would be foolhardy to predict what climate change has in store for coming years. What I do know is that nature in some situation,, left to its own devices, can reclaim itself.

Photos by author, Aug and Sept 2024

Locker Room

I had to descend down a long concrete stairwell, perhaps enough to cover two stories, to a football locker room. The locker room was in the dungeon of the school, and I recall it sitting even below the boiler room. It was here that we received our football equipment for seventh grade, with the coach's office and equipment storage room sharing an adjoining room. Being in the bowels of a school, the rooms lacked any natural light, and were lit with a few florescent shop type lights. The room seemed much older than the school, which was built during the baby boom era. This was the locker room for the Sacred Hearts football team. I don't think the smell of sweat that permeated the equipment from budding hormones of adolescent boys ever left the equipment or the room. The showers were located up the stairs, down a hall, and were across from the cafeteria below the gym, which was much older. The locker room, like the cafeteria had been remodeled which was evident by the green and beige tile. This small locker room served the winter sport basketball team. 

My first locker room is a distinct contrast from the Division1 locker room of the Wisconsin Badgers. A recent article in "On Wisconsin", the UW alumni magazine which my wife Toni receives, had her thick red hair shaking in disbelief. My first locker room, was generally concrete block walls and concrete floors. There may have been a few mats, but I recall the metal tipped cleats clinking on the concrete floor. There was no tap dancing. Wood benches without backs were scattered around the room. Team meetings seldom took place in the locker room, but rather were out on the practice field, which was about a 1/4 mile walk from the locker room. I would have had only about a 300' walk from my house to the practice field, as our yard, bordered most of the south side of the Sacred Hearts athletic field. The boiler, which looked like it could have been the guts of Maryann the steam engine, lumbered and cranked depending upon the days temperature. The color of the room was institutional concrete grey. No paint, no decoration, just a simple space dedicated to kids looking to play a certain sport that allowed them to keep testosterone in check. The Badger locker room is red, which is the main color for the Badgers.

Photo of part of UW Football Locker Room
Source: "On Wisconsin", fall 2024

The UW football team locker room has red appointed stuffed seating that is three feet wide that folds to reveal ventilated storage. The article does not say if they are leather or vinyl covered. Below each seat is a back lighted logo of the motion "W" that is on the helmet. Just another thing to change if they change the logo design. I guess it lets you know what team you play on after too many hits to the head. If they can recognize the logo. Above the personal space is an illuminated display (again back lit) that features the athletes picture and name and some other stuff. Overdoing Badger red, the carpet is red as well as some of the lighting, which the article describes as low-lit, and says" "The low-lit room glows Badger red." Blood red is probably an appropriate color for a football locker room, particularly for a team who has an artificial surface. The red colored rug burns, and blood from cuts, will fit right in. Low light levels may be the only similarity the Sacred Hearts locker space had to the current Badger locker room.

A trophy case is present by the UW locker room, which is placed to add extra incentive, particularly since one trophy currently sits in Iowa. By the trophy case is shared space, which makes you think you are at a spa. there are lounge chairs, televisions, pool table, sleep pods, four foot deep recovery pools, and a saltwater float tank. There is also a nutrition room.  Add the barber and it is no wonder some players spend several hours there after practice. They have their own spa. A four square court is present, but hardly now used since Covid, as the writer said it is hard to compete with a cellphone. It is one big man cave. My wife understood the need for the deep recovery pool, and possibly the saltwater pool, but thought all else was above board. I wonder if the nutrition room serves lotus drinks?  My brother-in-law, Rick, had a couple lotus drinks at the BJ (that is for Boulder Junction) coffee shop when we were with them in Boulder Junction for a week in Sept. When ordering his first lotus drink he told the clerk he was turning in his man-card. Receiving coffee the next day, she told him his coffee had the blood of 2,000 men. She did not say to him, a Norwegian, if it was the blood of 2,000 Viking warriors.

Going out on a limb, I wonder if the UW serves new age (such as lotus) drinks in the nutrition room. Does this account for the lack of productivity on the field. A loss to Alabama was not unexpected, but by 42-10, could I say the team collectively lost its man-card? The Badgers have this week off to tend to their wounds before facing USC, in a revamped Big-Ten. Badger fans are still awaiting the arrival of the promised "Air Raid" offense. What the O-Coordinator and the head coach seem to lack is the understanding that the UW has really been a run oriented team, so to go to the promised "air raid" offense requires a culture change. 

My brother Steve who coached HS football for many years said with the pass four things can happen, and three of which are not good (sack, interception, incompletion). Passing offenses offer big gain, and that is why they are so popular. Rules have been changed to benefit the passing game, so statistics that compare stats from the 1960's or 1970's (and even 1990's and later) to 2020's is playing with numbers. it is like comparing rushing yards of a 16, now 17 game season to when the seasons had 14 or less games. 

Football is big business and D1 programs compete for talent, and each team searches for its edge. Years ago, "60 Minutes" had a segment on then Alabama coach Nick Saban. Not once, not once, was there a mention of academics or academic standards at the University. The edifice complex has spread to fields, as Bama's is Nick Saban field, and Camp Randall's is Barry Alavarez field. What significant figurer in football will get the restrooms named for them? Luke Fickell Restrooms. Chris McIntosh trash enclosure. I still await a name referred to as Tax Payer Field. To me, this all shows how far college football has floated from its academic roots, and even its early roots. 

When my Dad played in the first Cotton Bowl they traveled by train, and no practice facility was provided, but they found a pasture to practice in. I have to think I would be more at home in that basement concrete locker room when I was at Sacred Hearts. I do not need much frills. Football was, and is, a tough game, and the Sacred Hearts locker room reflected the game's grit. The game has changed markedly since 1971, and in more ways than reflected in the Badger locker room. So, Badger players, get yourself a lotus drink, and sit down on your padded seat to enjoy the televisions.

Boulder

We are biking a paved trail surrounded by tall pines and lower level spruce trees. This setting provides a sense and scent of Christmas which is over three months distant, but with the weather late last it could have been less than two months distant. We were on part of the Heart of Vilas County bike trail system. The bike system, which runs from Mercer southeast to just past St Germain, meanders through forest, and wetlands, over rivers and streams and along crisp blue lakes. One would think we are in a horse drawn cart on our way to grandma's house. 

Bike trail in St Germain

We make our base in about the middle, at Boulder Junction, staying at Big Bear Hideaway that was built by my brother Joe and now sold to other operators. Each time I am in the building, I find something new to marvel at, the little noticed detailing help makes the place. What is nice about the Northwoods is the diversity of its forests. We experienced some that were predominantly pine, and another, Forest Lake trail, that was mainly hardwood--with maple as its predominant species.

Fauna along Forest Rd

The Northwoods, as it is known, draws people from much of the upper Midwest. Even people from Illinois make the journey, not to mention some from Minnesota which has its own northwoods. We arrived on the Wednesday after Labor Day, and one can tell the summer season is over, not only by the shorter days, cooler weather, but the lack of activity in the towns, and the closures of some restaurants and shops. In Boulder Junction, the two ice cream shops are closed, the last closed Saturday evening. The second staple of Wisconsin not being available is somewhat disconcerting, but the bars and taverns still seem alive, although certainly less busy. The Boulder Coffee shop seemed to do a consistent business on the morning of 9/11.  

Fallison Lake

One restaurant/bar, a few minute mosey from our lodging, had live music last Saturday evening, and the flowing beer sure made things hop in Boulder Junction. This is quite a statement given that my son and daughter-in-law significantly lowered the average age (perhaps by 15 years) of what one niece refers to as the AARP crowd. I counted about 90 people. It was music that could be well enjoyed by us older folk, John Denver, Harry Chapin, just to name a few artists. I am not a musically inclined or knowledgeable individual, but I did know a few other artists.  

Hopping AARP crowd at Aqualand restaurant

With an ability to offer more than beer, the Wisconsin Northwoods can be a great location to undertake varied outdoor activities. The day Mom Bear and I arrived, last week Wednesday, we could not check in until 3 pm, but we left early, and I got some swimming in (Nichols Lake and Jag Lake) and we did a  twelve mile bike ride on part of the new Lost Creek Loop, from Nichols Lake to the Jag Lake state forest group camp. While others hiked, me and my bad feet moseyed along from varied parking lots to a falls, hiking a total of three miles while visiting water falls along the Black River in the Upper Peninsula, near Bessemer. We had intermittent rain that morning, and we were fortunate to fit the falls in without much affect by the rain. Late that afternoon, we biked the full 14 mile Lost Creek Loop. Showing the unreliability of weather apps, three showed the rain had stopped, but we had half the ride in rain. I suspect the cars that went by wondered what was wrong with us. Heck, on Tuesday the chance of rain was 6% and that chance of course struck us a few times. 

Part of a Black River waterfall

A few days the weather was in the low 70's which allowed both swimming, and biking, and, even for me, some hiking. That is the odd thing about early September. In the north it is a shoulder season in early September. When weather is decent, the lake water still is sufficient in which to swim, and the biking is nice in 60 and the 70 temperatures. Friday the temps were in the low 50's and struggled to the low 60's in the sun on Saturday. There is much to explore, and the paved bike paths provide an opportunity for many. The popularity of E-bikes sure makes it a must do for many seasoned citizens. Biking is just one of many activities one is able to enjoy in Vilas County.

Enjoying the Fallison Lake Trail
(Courtesy of Andrew Hovel)

I do not fish, and many see the north as best for those who like to fish. Vilas County, where we spent most of our time, is said to have the largest concentration of freshwater lakes in the world (although different government units define lake differently). Hence, it is an attraction for those who like to fish. Past trips we have noticed many females, those wayward females, in large groups biking, which makes me wonder if their spouses or partners are off fishing while the ladies get in some cardio. Many fish for Muskies, which I hear takes a great deal of patience. My oldest brother was a Muskie fisherman, and tied and sold lures for that species. He probably had less patience than me, so I often wondered how he was so successful. It must have been the lures.

Me with Marty, Boulder Junction

(photo courtesy of Toni Hovel)

One thing I like about these small towns in the kitsch of a fiberglass figure. One town has a loon, Boulder Junction has Marty the Muskie, and St Germain has some French guy along Hwy 70, slightly east of 155. Each claim a mascot. 

Me and Marty, closeup 

(photo courtesy of Toni Hovel)

While the Wisconsin north woods is known for its lakes, and woods, success breeds problems. I have written about one problem I noticed a few years ago in Vilas County, which you can read about here. I believe vacation rentals are a large part of the cause, as it certainly is not agriculture. With vacation rentals, cottages are used many weeks during the year, rather than perhaps four or five. I think, for the health of the waters, it is time for a sewage treatment plant to be considered for the lakes with many dwellings. Sewage treatments plants have helped clean or keep clean a number of lakes clean . 

The lakes and woods are what draw people to the north woods, and humans have a capacity to destroy that which they value. Hence, some intervention is needed, before the lakes become cesspools not favorable to the recreation purposes so desired.

By Fallison Lake
(Courtesy of Gena or Andrew)

The Northwoods has an ability to strike your senses, from the scent of pine needles, to the sight of a lake within a forest. The sound of water lapping against the shore, or a small brook all delight. IN providing a delight to your senses, it delights your soul, and helps your well being. 

Unless otherwise noted, all photos by author.

Futbol

If I had titled this post as "Football" most, if not all, readers would have linked it to American football. This post is about what the rest of the world know as futbol (with a diacritical accent mark above the u), also known as football, or here in the US as soccer. When my boys were in grade school they played soccer for a few years. I actually coached our younger sons team for a couple years. But, I am not writing about second graders playing soccer, but men in their athletic prime playing the "beautiful game". My wife and I attended our first professional soccer game in St Paul, MN on the evening of August 24. It was a great futbol game. We, and my sister and her husband, were invited up by my son and his wife to see a game. The game did not disappoint.

Outside view of Allianz Field before game

The final score was 3 to 2 in favor of visiting Seattle, as opposed to the Minnesota United Loons. Not to be outdone by the NFL, there professional season, for 2024 started in February and the regular season goes to early October. My first thought was that the February and March games would tend to be played at southern locations. I was wrong. Of the nine games, one in February and eight in March, six were played at the Allianz Field in St Paul. Allianz is an outdoor stadium, but has a translucent canopy that extends over much of the seating area. As would be expected in a northern climate where temperatures in February and March can be well below freezing, the field is heated. Playing in cold weather requires other accommodations, such as heating in restrooms, luxury boxes and the concession booths. When the Vikings played a season at the Univ of Minnesota Stadium while their new structure was being built, they had to make accommodations for playing in cold weather as the stadium was built as a three season venue, which generally sees is last game around Thanksgiving time, meaning it lacked proper heating for the winter. 

Field before game

Allianz stadium, opened in April 2019, it took two years and four months to construct. The game attendance was 19,751 (Loons website), although the stadiums listed capacity is 19,600 (Loons website). I am not sure where all the people were, because although the game was well attended, I did see empty seats. 

The attendees were engaged, and the UW students would be proud, or perhaps perturbed, that they have a play on one of the UW student chants X-rated chants at UW football games. My clean ears and mind took awhile, with a question to my son, to have figured it out.  If I was a regular at a UW football attendee, I may well have figured it our right away. At certain corner kicks, why only corner kicks, I don't know why, the fans stand and wave a scarf. Well most do, a woman in the row in front of us and a bit to the right had a scarf but did not wave it. Her male partner was rather enthusiastic about waving his with his left hand and arm, so perhaps she thought he was doing it for the both of them. On  the other hand if she waves with her right, maybe the arms would have become intertwined. She should have been on his left side as the seat to her left was vacant. 

Scarf waving, but for the woman

What was not vacant was the drum playing. Several people, perhaps 12 or more were gathered on a concourse over looking the field end and played their drums. Not any particular tune of which I was aware, but the sound added to the experience. I have to say, when watching the Vikings play, hearing their skol horn is not a delightful sound. It may be because they scored. Because soccer seldom stops play, the drum sound was almost continuous. 

The most unique aspect of this event was not the game, not the sound, not the stadium, but the fact that I found myself rooting for a team from Minnesota. I attended a Minnesota Twins game several years ago in Minneapolis, but more for the enjoyment than to root for a team. But, here I found myself rooting for the Loons. Was it old age? Have I become less suspicious of Minnesota, the Wisconsin rival to the west? I think it is the fact that Minnesota has the Loons, and Wisconsin lacks professional soccer, although Madison has a semi-pro team in the Flamingos. The neat thing was watching players who likely have played against the best soccer player in the world--the left footed Lionel Messi. Messi now plays for Miami, formally known as "Club Internacional de Fútbol Miami"  I am sure if the Loons were playing Inter Miami CF, the stadium would have been more than sold out, and people would have arrived early to watch the match. I think it is great that Messi, in the twilight of his career (he is 37), plays in the US, and by doing so likely takes the game in this nation to a whole other level. Too bad, the US Men's national team did not do better at the Paris Olympics

Game attendees

Soccer is an international game, and the next world cup, in 2026, will be hosted by Canada, Mexico and the United States. Minneapolis, along with Chicago and Vancouver, dropped out of consideration of being a host city due to the international federation (FIFA) not wishing to discuss financials. Hence, the only Midwest location is Kansas City. The international nature of the game, makes for diverse team rosters. 

US football rosters have few international athletes. But, the differences are remarkable for games that share the same name variation. First, in football the clock counts down, in soccer it counts up. In soccer extra time is added for certain stoppages, this does not occur in football. In football there are plays with downtime in between, in soccer there are plays, but the game keeps moving.

Years ago, I was working at a KC bottle toss game at a festival. Working with me were the then head coach of Sun Prairie High School's football team, and another man who I do not recall. I was in my early twenties, and found their conversation of the expected effect on high school football, where the coach was afraid of declining numbers, and a decline in quality. I do not think high school football has been negatively impacted. Boys soccer and football share the same season in Wisconsin interscholastic high school athletics. 

Allianz Field

The point is that football is still king in the United States. In my opinion the NFL and college football are getting too big for their own good. As i write this, the Packers are expected to play The Philadelphia Eagles in Sao Palo, Brazil, the first NFL game in South America. In fact, showing the hubris of the NFL, the color green is banned at the stadium in which they are playing as it is the color of the teams biggest rival. (Do you know why purple is the Viking's color? If you had been choking for 60 years you would be purple too.) The way I look at it, in rooting for the Minnesota United Loons, I was rooting for an underdog. Which they probably were, as in their division they were in 9th position, to Seattle's 7th place. Futbol is a dynamic game to watch, although watching a March game at Allianz Field could be rather cold.