On this date in 1506, which was the first Sunday after
Easter, a crowd gathered at the edge of a deep excavation. As a procession of Cardinals, dignitaries,
and Pope Julius II arrived, the crowd split to allow those esteemed members of the
community to get closer to the excavation.
After blessing the site, Julius, dressed in a papal regalia of which
Benedict XVI would be proud, made his way down 25 feet to the base of the hole,
needing to use several ladders within
the terraced pit. He took with
him holy water and an urn of medallions.
As he climbed down, the crowd above moved ever closer to the edge causing
part of the edge to fall, making Julius wonder whether he would be buried
alive. Gasps from the crowd were
probably more of whether God was going to strike back at the desecration Julius
had unleashed. Julius survived. He first laid, below the location of the
stone, the urn holding a dozen commemorative medals, which had his likeness on
one side, and a drawing of the proposed building on the other. Julius would then place the first stone-- a block of marble--over the location of the urn.
This was the first stone of a new
Basilica. It would be the first stone in what would become the first of four main piers to support the proposed
dome of a new Basilica. Julius’ proposed
structure would replace the hallowed building first constructed on this site by
Emperor Constantine beginning in 320, and completed about 30 years later. Combining the vagaries of the human
condition, with the fortunes of history, the new basilica would take over four
times as long to complete its primary construction as did the first Basilica. The construction of the second St. Peter’s
Basilica is a metaphor for the man for whom it is named, the human condition, and the Church of Rome. Each of the
three would see splendor and scandal, genius and failure, triumph and tragedy. Today, Good Friday, perhaps more than any other
one day of the year best reflects the dichotomy present in each of the three.
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Cut away view of old St. Peter's (Source: U. of Pittsburgh, on-line)) |
St. Peter was an interesting choice, by Jesus Christ, to be the
first mortal leader of men to run what would become an institution sprawled to
the ends of the earth. “Thou art Peter, and upon this rock I will
build my church.” Peter, like most
fisherman of the time, was likely gruff, rather short with others, and was
irresolute in character, and would often speak without thinking. He lacked the courage of Thomas, and the
enduring poetry of John. But he made up
for this with zeal, and enthusiasm. In
other words, he was human—like us.
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Foundation of Simon Peter's home in Caphernum (April 2013) |
Julius II was, in some respects, like Peter, he was brash,
iron-willed, impatient, and at the time of his pontificate he was in the twilight
of his life. Unlike Peter, but like
other Renaissance Popes, his private life was not what one would expect from the
leader of the Catholic Church. Although
not rising to the licentiousness of Alexander VI, Julius nonetheless had
fathered three illegitimate daughters, not all perhaps before taking Holy
Orders. Julius was the nephew of Pope
Sixtus IV, and would become a Cardinal at age 16. The word nepotism is derived from the Italian
word for nephew. Julius would be the new
Caesar. He would undo the work already
underway to strengthen and expand the Basilica Constantine had constructed 1200
years earlier. The original Basilica saw
the coronation of kings, the consecration of 184 popes and contained the
remains of a large number of saints and martyrs. The excavation for the first stone was not on
virgin soil, and if Julius cared to examine the cross section of the pit as he descended he could have seen over a millennia of history displayed
within the soil horizon. To the faithful
it was a scandal to destroy a church so old, so Roman, so very
much a part of its history. But Julius
would set in place the beginnings of a building that would be impossible to replicate
today. The objections he heard instead
of giving pause, would drive him forward.
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Footprints of Caligula's Circus, Old St Peter's (dark line)
and new St. Peter's (light gray) (Source: Columbia University on-line) |
Yet, Julius was a generous and discriminating patron to
artists, scholars and musicians. Without
him, there would be no Sistine Chapel ceiling, and much of the art that drives
thousands to Rome would not be present.
Yet, for this second building he turned to a middle-aged man who had no
great buildings to his name, but Donato Bramante did have one building, the
Tempietto, which was still under
construction, but had graceful proportions, and a beauty so grand, and without
a superfluous detail that nothing like it had been constructed since the times
of the Roman Empire. Bramante is the least
known of the four giants of the Renaissance.
He was a rival of Michelangelo, a friend of Leonardo, and a mentor to
Raphael. All but Leonardo would have a
hand in this grand undertaking. Bramante
would study the techniques of the Romans, measure their buildings, discern the
lost techniques, and study the one book remaining from the fall of the empire
that dealt with Roman architecture. In
1505 Julius accepted the Greek cross design for the new Basilica. He would unite the Roman Basilica and the
Roman temple designs to set forth the new Christian Basilica. His plan was one-third the size of what St.
Peter’s is today, but it was still of grand size, building on the Roman ego of
more is better. His plan was a testament
to the Renaissance with its proportionality, its color, its discernment. Knowing that he would not see the end of the
construction, Bramante began work on the piers which would hold the dome. The dome was envisioned as the signature
piece of the structure. The building
would expand out, not unlike what the twelve Apostles had done to spread the
word of the son of a carpenter from a small outpost in the Roman Empire.
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View of the Baldicchino by Bernini (Nov. 1990) |
Simon, who was to be renamed Peter, by Jesus, was a
fisherman living in Capernum, in an octagonal shaped house near the temple,
with his wife, children, and his mother-in-law.
Simon was following John the Baptist, and would be introduced to Jesus
by his brother Andrew. Peter was rash,
and bold and would act without thinking, but was also easily altered by
external influences and did not deal well with difficulty. Peter was one of three apostles to view the
transfiguration of Christ. In a test of his faith, Peter was the one Christ
called to walk out on the water. In the
Garden of Gethsemane, Jesus would take Peter, James and John with him while he
went to pray, ask them to remain awake, but they would fall asleep. Jesus would rebuke them, and end the rebuke
with the famous words that describe humanity to this day, “the spirit indeed is
willing, but the flesh is weak.” Two
additional times he would go to pray only to return and see them sleeping.
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View of St. Peter's Basilica from across the Tiber (Nov. 1990) |
The construction of the basilica would span over 150 years
and 22 pontificates. Julius’ banker
would suggest the use of indulgences to pay for the construction of the
endeavor. Julius would not discard the
advice, but not put it in practice right away either. To the Roman mind the use of an indulgence to
pay for a building project was not new, and was accepted practice. The church would pay a steep price for this
method of financing construction which hit its peak under Leo X, a de Medici
pope, who along with relative Clement VII, would desire more for his family than
for the church. It was during Leo’s
reign that a little known Augustinian Monk in Germany would post his 95 thesis
on the door of German church. The
practice of paying for an indulgence was apparently not highly thought of in
the Teutonic north. Raphael, the
Bramante protégé, would succeed his mentor under Leo X. Unfortunately, Raphael was a brilliant
artist, but had a short life and was not quite the man up to managing a large
project. Perhaps under a different
pontiff the results would have been different.
A pontiff like Julius would likely have dealt with the matter of coming
reformation quickly, but the party boy Leo put it off, and the church would pay
a steep price. One wonders if Julius
would pursue the goal of this grand endeavor if he had known the pain and price
the church would pay. Julius should have
known that not all pontiffs would be able to face difficulties in the way he
had done so. The de Medici Popes would
go down in history for their level of incompetence.
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Interior of part of the Dome (Nov. 1990) |
The second of the two successive de Medici Popes was Clement
VII. A man with a history of
vacillation, Clement essentially was self- imprisoned during the 1527 sack of
Rome in Castel St. Angelo. Much of Rome,
and her citizens were destroyed during the sack by mutinous troops of the Holy
Roman Emperor Charles V. A portion of
the group who did the sack followed the new brought teachings of Martin
Luther. Of course, adventures of this
kind often gather the bandits, non-contents, not unlike the Syria civil war
being fought today, so the sack was by a mixed group each with their own
purpose. It was the pillage, rape, and
destruction of a proud city. While not
the first sack, as Rome was sacked during the fall of the Roman Empire, it had
repercussions beyond Rome itself. With
Clement imprisoned, he could not well attend to the situation brewing in
England with Henry VIII, as Clement did not wish to further offend the Emperor
by granting Henry a divorce from his Aunt, Catherine of Aragon. Although, given Clement, it may have had
the same outcome. The event would also
mark the end of the Renaissance in a city, when considered with Florence, was
synonymous with the Renaissance. The
population would fall from 55,000 before the sack to about 10,000, with perhaps
up to 12,000 of the lost souls having been murdered during the pillage.
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Mosaic of St. Mark. To indicate proportion, the pen in his hand (look below the letter A) is
5' 2" long, or the height of my spouse. The letters above are over 6.5' in height. (Nov. 1990) |
Peter would awake that fateful night in the Garden of
Gethsemane to Jesus being faced by Judas and soldiers who had come to claim
him. Showing his bravado, Peter would
desire to defend Jesus, but would back off due to words of Jesus. Jesus likely saved Peter from a greater
humiliation of having been cut down by the sword of a centurion. While Peter was considered to be a stout,
strongly built man for the time, his sword skills were likely little match for
a Roman soldier or the police of the chief priests. Peter would take flight from the scene, but
his eyes would meet those of Jesus later, just before dawn.
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Statutes on St. Peter's Basilica (Nov. 1990) |
Following the de Medici popes, Paul Farnese would take the see
of Peter, and the name Paul III, and the church would see a new dawn. Paul,
too had a mistress and would father four children, but unlike other Popes of
the time, had there is no record of sexual activity during his reign as
pontiff. Paul realized the need for
moral men and that the old ways of business in Rome were no longer
acceptable. Paul would convene the
Council of Trent which would set in motion the Counter Reformation, and regain
at least some moral authority. His trump
card for countering the Reformation, however, was that of the second of two
architects he would appoint. The first architect, he appointed would be Sangallo,
who raised the floor which required alterations to alcoves Bramante had placed
within them, and he strengthened Bramante’s already large piers. While Sangallo
was at work on the Basilica, it would take all of Paul’s wily negotiating skills
to bring forth the man, to fresco the Last Judgment in the Sistine Chapel. Paul would turn to this man to be chief
architect when Sangallo had passed. This
artist was a man who was unkempt, engrossed in his work, felt slighted by the
actions of Bramante and the young Raphael, but yet who cared for his soul to
take on the commission of continuing work on the project conceived by the
Pontiff for whom he had painted the Sistine Chapel. At an age when most men have been well
retired, Michelangelo would answer the call of Paul III. Paul gave him free reign and he used it to
not only put his imprint on the building, but to reign in the graft and
corruption that had become so rampant in the project. He not only managed the project with an iron
will, but he brought his genius to bear.
Up to this point no architect had quite figured out how Bramante had
intended to build the dome, but this genius of the Renaissance figured a way,
and started construction on the drum.
Bramante set in motion the width of the dome by the dimensions of the
piers, but Michelangelo would take that to a new level with his drum.
However, the dome would not be completed by Michelangelo,
but by one of his workers, who would succeed him as chief architect. The first modern urban planner of Rome, Pope
SIxtus V, would not only see to it that Rome rose from the ashes of the sack,
but he would appointment of della Porta would continue the efforts of
Michelangelo. For the next 50 years, no
Pope would wish to depart from the gifts of the greatest artist of the Renaissance. Bramante’s piers had taken seven years (not
including the two times they were strengthened), and the master had taken 17 to
complete the drum, and here the lowly della Porta was given 30 months to
complete signature piece of the one of the greatest buildings constructed by
man. Della Porta would do it in under 22
months, which would belie the engineering feat that it was. He would alter Michelangelo’s design to make
it more practical to construct, but also construct a double dome as envisioned
by his mentor. The outer dome would be
more appealing in height and magnificence from the outside, but the lower inner
dome would best recognize the required proportionality so important to the beauty
of the age. It was May 1590 when the
last stone for the cupola was blessed and a week later Sixtus V would proclaim
the vaulting of the cupola complete.
This was the symbol of a city rising from the ashes and rebuilding
itself. The dome rises 438 feet, and has
a 138 foot diameter. It is three times the
height of the Roman Pantheon, 100’ higher than the Duomo in Florence. Every ornamentation would have to be large to
be seen and more importantly proportioned to the dome.
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Maderno's Facade from the Square, notice how little of the Dome
is visible due to the extension to form a Latin Cross (Nov. 1990) |
As the church entered its next century, the Counter
Reformation was well at work, the Pope was becoming a model of a Christian
life. Paul V, Camillo Borghese, was prudent, practical and a model of decorum.
It would be Paul V who would be the first to alter the design of
Bramante-Michelangelo-della Porta. He
would claim the Greek cross to Byzantine, and would demand a Latin cross, in
part due to the need to accommodate large crowds within the building, and that
the building should be at least as large as was the first basilica. This was yet another scandal, changing
from the design of Michelangelo. Like Julius II, Paul V forged ahead. 160 years earlier the experts had said Constantine’s
church would fall, but the last mass in this once grand building was celebrated in 1608, and in that year the final
parts of the first great basilica were brought down to the earth. Carlo Maderno would earn the rite to extend
the nave, and he did it so well that when inside you cannot tell what was
Michelangelo’s and what was Maderno’s. Little
seen is that he adjusted the nave to be on center with the obelisk that was
relocated from Caligula’s (also known as Nero's) circus by Sixtus V (moving this granite edifice is considered
one of the great engineering marvels). Yet,
Maderno is criticized to this day. Some
claim his facade is too narrow for its height (I see the main problem as his front being too high blocking a view of much of the dome while in the plaza), too heavy in the attic, too cramped in detail; of course, how dare he alter the Michelangelo
plan. His addition gives us the 60,000 person capacity building which awes us today. It is huge, but its proportion is so well accomplished that it does not seem overly huge.
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Bernini's Colonnade from roof of St. Peter's (Nov. 1990) |
The second Basilica was consecrated on November 18, 1626,
1300 years to the day after Pope Sylvester I dedicated the first St. Peter’s. While the building was enclosed, a great
Baroque artist would give the building its soul. He would cover the altar with the large
bronze Baldacchino. Author R. Scotti
writes: “Without the Baldacchino, St. Peter’s would be a fantasia of soaring
space, mosaics, gilt, colored stone, columns, niches, statutes, chapels and sepulchers. Amid the sensory overload, the papal altar—the
single element that gives meaning to the vast undertaking—would be lost.” It is at the altar where the wheat and wine are
turned into body and blood. Bernini would be
run out of town when a bell tower he was constructing would falter, but he
would be back under Alexander the VII, who was quite unlike his prior namesake.
An interesting aspect, is that he was
the grandnephew of the banker who had recommended the sale of indulgences to
finance construction. Together the two, Bernini and Alexander VII, would
complete the Basilica. Perhaps their
most impressive undertaking is the colonnade and the plaza we so recognize
today. This colonnade represents the
arms of the church reaching out to gather the many. The additions by Bernini bring emotion into
play, and emotions are the essence of us earth-born. It is what makes us human.
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Colonnade as viewed from disc in the square, where all four columns perfectly
line behind the other, with only the front visible (Nov. 1990) |
The greatest religious building on earth is named for the
man who had claimed undying loyalty to Jesus, and in fact would die for him,
but within a few hours of that proclamation, on the first Good Friday, he would deny knowing Jesus, not
once, but three times! Within a span of hours Peter, the Rock, had changed his opinion, he had succumb to concern of his own life. Peter recognized his frailty. When he was to be crucified by Nero in Rome, at Nero's (Also known as Caligula's) Circus, he asked to be crucified upside down. Christ did not
choose a perfect man to lead his church. It is over his grave that the magnificent St. Peter's sits.
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Bronze Statue of St. Peter, notice the wear on his feet |
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Up close photo of feet, worn by the touch of many hands.
A tactical expression of devotion this man. (Photos from Wikipedia) |
The Popes who built St. Peter’s Basilica were not perfect men, but were
flawed, were human. The Church is much
more than a building, it is a collection of ideas and more importantly the
elemental natures of forgiveness, and salvation.
As Drew Christianson, SJ has written about this holy week:
“So, this week if you would draw near to Jesus in his suffering and
death, take on the mind of the one who humbled himself and assumed our human
vulnerability and mortality (Phil 2:5-7). ‘Go to the edges,’ as Pope Francis likes to
say, draw close to the poor, the uneducated, the sick and impaired, the
intellectually challenged, the frail elderly, especially those suffering
dementia, and serve them. For that is where Christ himself would be. That is
where Christ wants us to be.”
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Steps on which Peter denied Christ,
Jerusalem next to Chief Priest Caiaphas' Residence (April 2013) |
Great
architecture does not go to the edge. Neither does a great building of stone . But, architecture and stone do inspire us. They make us want to be
better, to use the gifts provided by our creator, and in it we see the power of the human spirit. For some, like Bramante, Michelangelo, Raphael, della Porta, Bernini and even Maderno, it involves using mind and hands to turn a collection of stones into something grand, for others their gifts involve somethings different, but for all it should involve acts of mercy. The vulnerabilities, foibles, and frailties
that we have are offset by the splendor, sublime and surprising that we
can undertake. No one building more than
St. Peter’s Basilica, no one man more than St. Peter, and no one day more than Good
Friday represent this on-going dichotomy of being human. Without Good Friday, there would have been no Easter Sunday.
Have a Blessed Easter!
Note: Unless otherwise noted, all photos by the author