Cellarer

St. Joseph's Monastery of Spencer, MA is not unlike most Trappist monasteries in the nation, or for that matter the world, but they recently became the first Trappist Monastery in the nation, and the ninth in the world to produce a product rather ubiquitous to us in Wisconsin, although in their own unique way.  A few weeks ago they started selling a beer that is certified as authentic by the International Trappist Association. What, you ask, makes a beer produced by a bunch of monks unique?  Perhaps this post will add some insight.

The Cellarer, in a common depiction

In the first half of the 6th century, Benedict of Nursia wrote the Rule for Benedictine Monasteries at the great Monte Cassino Monastery in Italy.  It is a guide to religious communal living that survives 1500 years later, and in that respect owes a great deal to the practicality of its author.  Regarding alcoholic beverages, Benedict says the following:

We read that monks should not drink wine at all, but some monks of our day cannot be convinced of this, let us at least agree to drink moderately and not to the point of excess [Chapter 40].

To the Rule, moderation is key to things not sinful.  With a monastery located in Italy, how could a monk not wish to drink wine?

St. Benedict of Nursia

Monasteries were vital to travelers in the difficult times during, the decline and fall of the Roman Empire up and through the middle ages.  Not only did they serve as the inns of these eras, but they provided a clean, safe haven as well.  The walls were not built to keep monks in.   Food and drink are essential parts of daily living and were of more importance to a traveler in the early middle ages than to us today.  After all, there was no McDonald's, Chili's or other fast or casual dining place so common in the big box areas ever present along main travel corridors and at interchanges.  Monasteries served as the wayside, and Inn.  Monasteries at this time were often self-sufficient, and what they could not make they would trade for.  St John's Abby in central Minnesota was near self-sustaining until the 1960's.  Given the level of self-sufficiency, the position of Cellarer was often considered second to the abbot in importance.  It was this position that made sure there was ample provisions for monks and guest, not only in terms of food, but also the tools necessary to produce the food and the physical goods essential to human sustenance and well being.

Monte Cassino after Allied Bombing during
WWII

Wine and beer were more important than to simply satisfy an urge for alcohol.  Water was not necessarily pure, and carried a variety of diseases and illnesses, for which their was not Cipro or other anti-biotics. Making wine and brewing beer sanitized the water supply, and beer in particular provided nutrients critical to hard-working laborers. The life of a monk, particularly in Trappist orders and continuing to today, involves work and prayer.  While we can buy our pre-butchered chickens, beef and pigs, in the middle ages the monks would grow and slaughter their own animals.  This was not easy work and vital nutrients were important to keep the population healthy.

Monte Cassino following reconstruction

450 years after Benedict promulgated his rule, a group of monks decided that the Benedictines were not living the Rule as prescribed by their founder.  They desired a more strict interpretation of the rule, and thus came the founding of the Cistercian order, named after the community in France where the break-away monks formed their first community.  In a strict interpretation of the Rule, they would live a life of prayer and live by their labors.  As with the Benedictine's the Cistercian order became powerful in Europe, although the Protestant Reformation and the later rise of Napoleon would almost lead to their extinction.  Trappists formed in 1664 when a group of Cistercians felt that the order had drifted and were not living the rule as strict as it should. Every 500 or so years a correction was required.  With upheaval in France, monks made their way to the more friendly confines of Belgium.  But unlike the French Trappists, those in Belgium found it difficult for vineyards to produce a sufficient crop so they turned to the another option--beer.  Beer would produce not only nutrients for themselves and their guests, but its sale would help support the community.

Spencer Ale Label

Monasteries, however, produced beer long before the Trappists did so in Belgium.  The template for monastery brewing came from St. Gall. Direct family members of this writer will note that the one completed chapter of the Hovel family history notes that the surname is from the Bohemian version of St. Gall.  Thus, our family surname pays not only tribute to St. Gall, but also to the founder of the monastic method of brewing.  I am not sure their is a better reason to like beer. St. Gall, provided for three breweries, one for the travelers and guests, one for the monks and a third to supply the poor.  Recall the nutrients and carbohydrates which beer provides.the quality of the beer differed, with the first group receiving the highest quality and the last the lowest.  Similar to the gospel story with Christ changing water to wine, the water and grains changed to beer, the best was used for the guests.   Hospitality is another tenant of the Rule, and continues to this day.

The Brewery at St Joseph's Abbey

While monks tend to be frugal some say it was a Jesuit who came up with the idea of using the grains more than once in the brewing process. Beer from the same grains dropped in quality and alcohol content.  Leave it to the Jesuits to squeeze out every last drop.  I suspect Pope Francis would be proud of that frugality. Although the Jesuit order is a rather new compared to Benedictine's so I would not be surprised in this discovery was not had earlier.

So why the big deal of Trappist beer?  Well, to that we owe much to the Belgians.  Belgium produces some great beers, there is even a restaurant in Wauwatosa that serves only imported Belgium made beer.  Of those good Belgian beers, one in particular has made notoriety as, by some standards, the best beer in the world.  The Westveleteren 12, produced by St Sixtus monastery in Belgium had six packs sold in the United States for almost $100.  The abbey does no marketing, and its production is by what the monks choose to do.

St Sixtus Abbey, Westvletern, Belgium

Belgian Trappist beer has an interesting history.  In the early 20th century cheap, lesser alcohol content from foreign sources made their way into the Belgian market, undercutting the home grown beers.  Like many an American, apparently some Belgians went for quantity over quality.  The imports apparently caused many local brewers to go out of business.  Being counter-cultural as they are, the Trappists saw a business opportunity with a niche market--brew high quality beer with a high alcohol content.  There efforts were indirectly aided by the government when in 1919 Belgium banned liquor sales at restaurants which allowed the high alcohol content beer made by the Trappists popular with diners.  Counter to their conservative image, the monasteries studied and adopted new techniques and equipment to obtain the best quality product possible.  Making beer in God's name they thought should not be but the best product.

Imitators led the Trappist monasteries to band together to form the International Trappist Association and create the Authentic Trappist label used not just on beer, but other products they produce.  To obtain the Authentic Trappist label, the product must meet four criteria:
1. The beer (or product) must be brewed within the walls of a Trappist monastery by or having the production supervised by the monks.
2,  The brewery must be of secondary importance and be subject to business practices commensurate with that of a monastic life.
3.  The brewery is not for making a profit.  The money is to be used to pay for the upkeep of the manstery and its monks.  Any excess money is to be for the monastery's charitable ventures.
4.The quality of beers are subject to quality monitoring.

Label for Authentic Trappist Product

St Joseph's Spencer beer, named for the town in Massachusetts in which the abbey is located, just like the St Sixtus abbey beer Westvleteren, was the ninth being so recognized, the others are in Europe, where Belgium has six, and one each in the Netherlands and Germany.  While the fellow monks in Belgium had some reluctance in passing on trade secrets to the upstart Americans, two monks from St Joseph's abbey spent several months in Belgium learning tricks of the trade.  Keeping with the values of the monks, when asked what to do to be successful the Belgians noted to buy the very best equipment you can find, and then "a bit more."

The Westvleteren 12 was not to have been sold in the United States.  Their product is clearly labeled as "Not for Resale," yet it has occurred.  Particular about producing the best beer, the Monks at St Sixtus noted that they do not have an international license to sell overseas, and anyway the beer is sensitive to changes in light and temperature.  The abbey said that the sale of their product in the US goes against the Benedictine values under the monks work.  In fact, they did a news interview not to promote the product, but to make Americans aware that the beer arrived in the US in ways they did not approve. In fact, they asked that American's not to ask for Westvlerteren, as it would not support the Trappist cause. Perhaps they did not hear the Hollywood mantra, that any press in good press.  If you want a Trappist beer, they suggested purchasing one properly available in the US. In any event they do not participate in tastings or such level of product promotion as counter to the level of humility to be expressed by their order.

The bottle says it all

The Cellarer position has perhaps morphed to that of Brewmaster, and the Benedictine-Trappist tradition of labor and prayer continues after 1500 years.  But what makes the beer unique is not the fact that is made by monks, but by the values of hard work, humility, and charity which are important to their lifestyle.  Who would know that we would owe so much to some Belgian monks for best methods of brewing?  Drink up!  

(A note of thanks to my spouse for making me aware of the existence of the Spencer Ale, and suggesting I do a post.)