Fish Fry

It is said to be a uniquely Wisconsin tradition--the Friday night fish fry.  The unique nature of the fish fry is not that there is a fish fry, many states  have them, but in Wisconsin it is taken to a different , higher, level.  It is a statewide institution and tradition, with perhaps the only other commensurate state-wide cultural  commonality being the Green Bay Packers.  In 1983 a New York Times writer referred to it as a "matter of state." Fish Fries are held in the local tavern, at the local church, the Knights of Columbus Hall, and even at trendy new eateries which hope to glean on to the long-held tradition. It spans the state from north to south and east to west.  It spans the rural and urban divide.  It is a cultural phenomenon that spans generations.  Ironically, it is so common that few Wisconsinites may realize the unique nature of this event and its meaning, much less its history.  There is a competition as to what is the best fish fry in your locale.  Newspapers regularly report on the best fish fry locations.  Eating out has long been apart of human culture.  So, the question is what drove the fish fry to new heights in Wisconsin?  Borrowing from news sources, and adding some of my own thoughts, this post will explore the Wisconsin fish fry and the unique place it holds in Wisconsin culture.  It was a confluence of cultural events that took the fish fry to its place in Wisconsin culture.  Many writers have recognized the events leading to the iconic nature of the fish fry as being:  religion, lakes, and Prohibition.  To this list I would add factories.

1930's Empire Bar, Sheboygan
Source:  jsonline

Geographically, the state is blessed with fresh water.  Lake Superior to the north, Lake Michigan to the east, the Wisconsin River through its center.  the Mississippi to its west.  Not to mention the 10,000 plus lakes (yes, more than Minnesota).  Common to the waters was algae, oh, I mean fish.  Perhaps it was perch, bluegill, walleye or catfish.  Each region would fry that fish type which was readily available.  Ubiquitous for the fish fry today is cod.  Today cod is fished outside of US waters,and is imported from regions around Canada.  The lakes supplied the fish, but it was the Catholic culture that began the fish fry.

1960,  Fish Fry at St. Thomas Aquinas Church
source:  State Historical Society

To say that the religion is the backbone of the fish fry would be a vast understatement.  Wisconsin, historically, was settled by a variety of ethnic groups, but one of the most prominent were the Germans  There were both Lutheran and Roman Catholic Germans.  In addition, to those from Germany there were the British, and Yankees (who moved west), Scandinavians (all generally protestant), but also other more Catholic groups from Eastern Europe that would make sizable contributions--the Bohemians and Poles come to mind.  The state would see varied settlements of these ethnic groups, which in many locales are in play today.  Milwaukee would see a large Polish concentration, but there is also settlements of Poles in northeast Wisconsin.  If you don't believe me go to Armstrong Creek.  Belgians settled near Green Bay, and of course Germans in both urban and rural settlements spread throughout much of the state.  but, it was the Roman Catholic heritage in so many varied parts of the state that has allowed the fish fry to be a statewide cultural event.  Starting in about the fourth century to 1966 Roman Catholics were required to abstain from eating meeting on a Friday.  It was an act of penance to recall Christ's death on a Friday.  Relaxed, in 1966, Catholics now are required to abstain from meat on Ash Wednesday, Good Friday, and the Friday's of lent.  The rule against eating meat, meant that people would then gravitate toward fish.  The fish fry is thought to have started in the Catholic concentrations in Milwaukee and Green Bay and then spread state wide.  The abstinence provision, until 1966, is the reason the fish fry is held year-around, although it is most prominent during lent.  Even the Pope approved reduction of abstinence could not take away what had become a Wisconsin Institution.  Showing a level of ignorance to as Catholic teaching, Professor Ruth Olson comments that Jeff Hagen who as she says has "done research on this issue," says that the "Wisconsin's population consists of a great number of German Catholics , and they have  continued their tradition of meatless Fridays (which began with the Lenten season and seems to have spread to all Fridays for some)."  No, the abstinence on all Fridays of the year led to the fish fry all year around.  Today, with the 1966 changed rule, Lent is given the prime spot for fish fries.

source:  google images

It is not uncommon for a fish fry to be held in the church basement, or, as is common in Milwaukee, with church festivals.  Just this past Sunday the "Wisconsin State Journal" had an article on St.Peter's Catholic Church in Ashton, WI, a small unincorporated community in the northwest part of Dane County.  Like Roxbury to the east, it was settled predominantly by German Catholics, most in the business of farming.  The last names of the volunteers to this day reflect that heritage--Wagner, Breunig, Meier, Meinholz, and Acker.  Held in the basement of the 150 year old parish school, they hold eight events a school year starting in October to fund raise of the parish.  What is amazing is not the 1,200 pounds of fish, 250 pounds of potatoes, or the 360 lbs of cabbage, or even the 420 lbs of french fries. It is not even the  near $60,000 they raise during a good year for the up to 1,200 diners at an event. Or, is it  that church members bake the bread and desserts in their home ovens that is served.  What is amazing, is the camaraderie of the church members who volunteer for the events--120 persons per event.  But, it is even larger. They have two shifts of volunteers who each do four events, that is 240 volunteers. A sense of community important to the Catholics in and around Ashton.  It is a small parish, with big hearts.  As one parishioner said in the "Wisconsin State Journal," "This is a community get together.  Everything works out good with God and hard work." Attesting to the austere nature of the Lenten season, the table centerpieces are a small simple cross of made of sticks with a purple cloth draped over the side rails.

Where is the rye bread?

The fish fry is a cultural appropriation, of which Catholics seem unconcerned.  The fish fry is now more than Roman Catholic--it is catholic--in that it is state wide, by its advancing to other religions and cultures. Heck even Stoughton, that bastion of Norwegians, has a local VFW fish fry.  I have two co-workers who live in Stoughton and argue about the best fish fry in their community.  You can probably even find a fish fry in a non-Catholic church.  Cultural appropriation may be seen as bad by some cultures, but this appropriation, what used to be called assimilation is what has given strength to the nation.  Varied ethnic groups making a contribution to the culture of the state.  In this instance, the religious roots of the fish fry are what made it ubiquitous.  It is a commonality shared by all Wisconsinites, and perhaps a tradition for which Wisconsin expatriates yearn.  Particularly those expatriates in Minnesota.

Deep fried fish

One writer says that the fish fry was popular back to in the 1800's.  That is probably true.  However, what made the Friday fish fry take-off, and to be embraced by commercial establishments was prohibition (1920-1933).  Roman Catholics, as a whole, never have seemed to view alcohol as the drink of the devil, compared to many religions.  Thus, many of the same communities and urban neighborhoods would have near their Catholic Church a tavern, or two, or three.  The corner and rural taverns are another cultural aspect while not unique to Wisconsin, the state has taken to a whole other level.  Prohibition clamped down on the use of alcohol, yet the taverns were the livelihood for the individual proprietor and their family.  What could they do to keep their livelihood?  They commercialized the fish fry.  The fish is fried, because, well it is easy to cook that way, in fact I could probably do it. At St. Peter's they cut the cod into uniform pieces to assure uniform cooking in the fryer. It was the advent of the fish fry that allowed some of these small businesses to remain viable during their dark days of prohibition.  Although this was probably coupled with  a beer being provided "under the table."  The first commercial operation fish fry is thought to have started in Appleton, WI in 1920.  As prohibition was lifted additional corner bars and rural taverns were reestablished and with them they copied the fish fry. The fish fry cost as little as a dime back in that era.

Line out the door at St. Peter's in Ashton
Source:  madison.com

Yet, also tied to this is the factory worker.  After a long week of work, they would get paid and take their spouse and family to the local tavern for the fish fry.  It was the TGIF, before such an acronym was ever created.  It was a time for the family to start to unwind, to start the weekend.   At this time, the state had many local factories, owned and operated by local persons.  It was before globalization and multi-national corporations.  Think Mirro Aluminum in Manitowoc, Regal in Eau Claire, to Connor Lumber in Laona.  It was a pattern repeated in communities small and large.  Perhaps my wife's paternal grandfather Rollo Goff and his wife, non-Catholics, would have attended a fish fry in Manitowoc after having left the assembly line building submarines for use in WWII.   The other aspect is the
German Gemuetlikeit, which, as one writer noted about the fish fry in Sheboygan, "meshed well with the community atmosphere of an evening meal held in a public forum with friends rather than just family."  During the depression, the morale of the nation mirrored that of the name.  The sharing of a family-style served fish fry with its heaping plates of fish, coleslaw, warm bread and french fries was a cheap meal, and allowed for conversation.  Today, St. Peter's in Ashton continues the tradition of seating at tables, eating with others you may not know, and the family style service of large plates heaped with food.  As Lori Meinholz said about the St. Peter fish fry, "It's all about the camaraderie with the people."

St. Peter's Ashton, and a tub of fish
source:  madison.com

People are brought together at commercial establishments, as well;  particularly at the bar.  Fish fries in commercial establishments are much more expensive today than even 30 years ago.  Ads proclaim old fashioned fish fries, or classic fish fries.  Each ethnic group, however, would provide their own variety of sides  One place may have potato pancakes instead of french fries. Rye bread, a custom of Germans is common, but another ethnic group may use something different.    Long gone is the all you can eat fish fry, although as a young man I found out all you can eat is not all you can eat, but that is another story.  Today one will pay about $13 for three pieces of cod.  In the 1980's the cost was about $4.00.  Climate change, over fishing, invasive species have all taken a toll on what was a more plentiful fish supply.  The fish fry is an important fund raiser.  We see that in Ashton, but also in Sun Prairie.  On the old Hovel family farm sits the Knights of Columbus Round Table, which hosts several fish fries supporting local youth organizations from the St. Albert youth group and scout groups to swim, softball or bowling teams.  The Knights do the cooking and tend bar, while the groups provide the person power for serving and clean up.  It brings forth a sense of community, and shows that not all are Bowling Alone (see Robert Putnam's book of that name).

St Peter's Ashton, a full dining hall
source:  madison.com

The Romans used to hold festivals and many of those feast days carried over to Christianity.  As Christianity grew so too did the feast days.  In the Catholic church there is one feast day, however, which can even outdo the Wisconsin fish fry.  Every now and then it falls on a Friday, and it is not uncommon for the local bishop to provide a dispensation for the flock from the meatless Friday rule.  No sense in over-aggravating their Irish, and Irish-for-a-day.  St Patrick's Day apparently rules over the fish fry.  The German Catholics may have started the Wisconsin Fish Fry, but it will take second fiddle to St. Patrick's Day this coming Friday.  It is said that well over half of the bishops of Catholic dioceses in the nation, and all in Wisconsin, granted dispensation to allow meat on that Friday.  Why an island nation would have a dinner of corned beef is beyond me when they could well have fish.   What this shows is the power of varied ethnic groups in the nation, and it is a time to celebrate how they get along.  There are more Irish on March 17, than there were the day before, or the day after.  Of course, historically, in small Mineral Point, WI there was once two Catholic churches--one for the Germans and one for the Irish.  It was part of the process of assimilation, and gravitation toward that most familiar.  Although, I am sure rivalry had something to do with it, too.  yet, the fish fry has been adapted depending upon the ethnic location.

St Peter's in Ashton Church
source:  Google images

It was a confluence of events that led the fish fry to be a cultural phenomenon.  There was once a deep faith behind what cultural icon in Wisconsin.  St Peter's Church in Ashton is vestige of quickly disappearing Catholic Wisconsin.  There will come a time, perhaps not too distant, where the great great grandchildren or great great great grandchildren will no longer remember the faith that their ancestors lived, and how it generated this long-standing Wisconsin tradition.  That would be a mistake, for where we were can teach us a great deal about ourselves, our culture and our traditions.  The Wisconsin fish fry is part of the Wisconsin DNA, and we have a confluence of natural elements (water and fish) with cultural elements (religion and prohibition) that made the fish fry what it is today.  Who says that geography does not matter?  Enjoy your fish fry, or this weekend your corned beef or Irish stew.

Bar in Roxbury, another German Catholic Community
Source:  Wisconsin Historical Society