Our Lady of Paris

The Cathedral of Our Lady of Paris, better known as Notre Dame, reopened this past weekend following a remarkably fast five year restoration, during a world-wide pandemic which slowed construction, to bring it back to its glory from a destructive fire that ruined the whole roof and collapsed many of the vaults. A magnificent wonder of medieval architecture its construction was started in1163, and completed in 1345, it was one of the most visited structures in the world. It is considered the geographic center of France from which the road system is numbered. But, it is more, as even highly secular France saw the need for its restoration as it symbolizes the country, and a Christian past, more than any other landmark, including the Eiffel Tower. 

Restored Interior
Source:  BBC

This symbolism goes back to the medieval era, when cities and towns vied with each other for cathedrals or basilicas for the greater glory of God and the church. As French author Bernard-Henry Levi wrote at the time of the fire about the Cathedral-- (Notre Dame is) "the France of the Resistance, of Europe, and literature. It's the Gothic holiness and the softness of the Seine. Faith and beauty. Aragon and Hugo. This morning, in the face of the gigantic fire? Hugo said: 'time is the architect but the people are the mason'." The Eiffel Tower lacks the history of Notre Dame in the events it has held over the years. From its significant destruction during the Reign of Terror of the French Revolution, Napoleon crowning himself, or its bells ringing as it was freed from German occupation, it has seen destruction and restoration over the centuries. While under the control of the French government it is still a religious place of worship, and for its significance, both religious and secular to be recognized in France of today says something of its draw to the population. It is a reminder to us of the power that buildings have in our world.

Front of Notre Dame, Nov 2024
Source: AP

Structures represent ideas and provide a sense of the tangible to concepts that lack physicality, the ability to touch. The attack on the US Capitol on 6 Jan 2021 is not so much about the building being violated by rioters, but rather by the attack on the idea of the three branches of a democratic-republic form of government of the United States set forth in the Constitution. Tangibility is also why people do not wish to see a parish, sometimes in their family for generations, closed. The parish church is representative of the values they hold, or held to their heart. It is a reminder of what were once often key events in a persons life--baptism, confirmation, marriage, and funerals. 

Western Rose Window
Source: AP

Buildings are part of human nature. We make them, we destroy them, we restore some of them. They are part of our being and an expression of our values. Noted geographer Yi-Fu Tuan once wrote that space becomes place when we endow it with value. Buildings become place by the memories they bring forth, by what we treasure from them. As secular as the French, and the west, may be, they still recognize the importance this structure plays as place. Place is embodied in the building, or site, but it is the values that are expressed that create the place. 

Archbishop of Paris Knocking for doors to be opened
Ritual where the Bishop takes hold of the Cathedral

Places do not have to be buildings, but as buildings go, this is a wonder. From its large stain glass windows, made possible at the time by building innovations such as flying buttresses and the rib vault, to the works of art contained within. It original roof was referred to as "The Forest" for each of its over 1,000 beams was from a single oak tree in France (in the 12th century sourced from a then 52 acre woods). Its restoration using oak was remarkable, due to a couple factors. First, an intense study of the roof structure for a university thesis which detailed the structure, followed by laser 3-d imaging. Second, as the forest preservation work of the country of France that allowed straight knot free oak to be once again obtained. Cut down and hued by hand, the forest was restoration followed the same old joinery techniques. Today, the forest was replicated often using similar techniques. One thousand trees for the roof, and another 1,000 for the recreated spire.

Baptismal Font, present time design
Source: AP

For its restoration CNN, writing on Dec 5, found similarity of numbers: "After more than 2,000 days’ work – involving 2,000 people, 2,000 oak trees and 2,000 features restored or rebuilt – the world got its first glimpse of “Our Lady of Paris” last week...." The chief architect for the Cathedral has said he first thought the five year time frame could be met when he saw the decent condition of the windows, and the organ. Interestingly, some new stain glass windows will be installed in 2026, representing images of Pentecost. The new windows, opposed by the Historical Commission, were apparently first suggested by the Archbishop as a manner to reflect the restoration, and that suggestion was accepted by the French President. Some sources say it was President Macron who first suggested some new windows, so I am not sure what is authoritative in the instance.

The fire brought to the fore abilities lost in a time where computers now take the duty of where and how to guide a saw to cut wood. The beams were hewed by hand, and cut by hand. Every stone, every piece of tile was inspected and cleaned. Some stone, marble and tile replaced. A great deal of tuck pointing occurred. Man of the famous gargoyles, which actually date from the 18th century, are new. More than 1,000 works of art were cleaned. Matching and comparable Lutetian limestone had to be found to match the original stone quarried in and around Paris during the original construction. The stone for restoration was sourced from France’s Oise region and cut in Gennevilliers. Barges were used to float the stones down the Seine to near the Cathedral. 

Evening of Dec 7, right before Reopening Ceremony
Source: NBC

Back in 1990 when my wife and I visited the Sistine Chapel a major cleaning and restoration had just been completed of what is perhaps the most famous artwork in the world--Michelangelo's frescoes.  Drawing controversy, including our tour guide, who said it went too far with its bright and vibrant colors, the thought was that bright colors were not possible at the time. The same claim has been made about the cleaning of not only Notre Dame's art, but its stone and tiles. Hundreds of years of candle soot and air pollution darkened the works of art (paintings here, frescoes in the Sistine Chapel) the stone and marble. For some reason, perhaps relating to modern negative views of the medieval era, people seem to think that everything was dark and bleak. But, they did have vibrant colors and the masters used it well. I think our tour guide and those who complain about Notre Dame need to take a deep breath and appreciate what was done hundreds of years past. People complain the whole of Notre Dame is now too clean, gone are the dark tones to which they had become familiar, replaced with a majesty that takes its rightful place for the French. It is once again anticipated to be one of the most visited buildings in the world, as they now anticipate 15 million people a year to visit.

Contrast Apr 2019 to Nov 2024
Source: AP

The Cathedral, owned by the government was falling into a state of disrepair, and it has now been transformed, but beyond that there are some positives first, a thousand works of art buried below the floor have been recovered, a task of digging the floor out would not have occurred without the fire.  No one has explained how they got there, perhaps it was during the reign of terror. Second, the fire has allowed, with the restoration new smoke and fire detectors and some suppression systems to be put in place, particularly in its new forest. Third, it has seen a revival of old masonry, woodworking, stain glass and other crafts, yet bonding old with the new.

Ceiling
Source: Notre Dame de Paris

The restoration is not inexpensive, I have seen varied cost estimates from $737 million to near $1 billion. The funds have been privately sourced from people the world over. But, lets put cost into perspective: the football stadium in Los Angles for the Rams and Chargers, completed a few years ago, cost over $5 billion. Granted, this is not as large, and is not a fully new structure, but, on the other hand, it is 860 years old. I doubt So-Fi stadium will last even 75 years. Every stone, every joint had to be cleaned and inspected, and if doubtful replaced. The new religion of the United States is sports, as can be seen by the value to construct new sport stadiums; remember space becomes place due to our values. Then there is the destructiveness of war.  Conflicts go against the beauty and majesty of Notre Dame and what it has represented for most of its 860 years than war. The United States has contributed, depending upon source, over $89 billion to $183 billion to Ukraine for its war with Russia. This does not include money from other countries, mostly in Europe, to Ukraine. As of March 2024, Western Countries have pledged over $380 billion, mainly military aid, to Ukraine. As for Notre Dame, people from over 150 countries have donated 846 million Euros to its restoration.

Ukraine War, US contributions
Source: Ukraine Oversight

Is the cost of preserving a United Nations World Heritage site worth it? I would have to say yes. The world would be a different place without Notre Dame, after all it drew 12 million visitors a year before the fire. People are attracted to see that building. France would lose part of its tie to a historical past that helped frame the country, if it were gone. If the US Capitol, or the state capitol were damaged by fire, I like to think they would be restored. If hundreds of billions of dollars can be spent on destruction and mayhem of war, is a billion so bad for a building that represents a nation's soul? France watched as the bells were put back in the north tower. People awed at the use of the largest crane in Europe placing the new spire, reconstructed like the one built in the 1800's, put back in place. The sad emotions expressed at seeing the fire in April 2019 is now replaced with admiration at what masons, woodworkers, architects, artisans, and other contractors have been able to undertake in such a short span of time. The original builders would look in wonder at the new construction methods, cranes over windlasses, computers over rulers and triangles. The original construction was a mark of human achievement, to be undertaken, and rebuild a knowledge base of the original methods is also a marked achievement. I have to think the original workers would be pleased to see Our Lady of Paris smiling once again. The smile of Our Lady produces a light within a world darkened by war. Such glorious structures mark a measure of human achievement and like Our Lady, we all can do with some good news.

“The light shines in the darkness, and the darkness has not overcome it.” (John 1:5)

Nov 15, 2024 Our Lady of Paris Statue being returned 
to the Cathedral, as 1,000's joined and watched.
Spared by the fire, even though surrounded by rubble.
Source: NBC

Turkey Day

We are now almost a week beyond Thanksgiving, that uniquely American day which now involves football more than gathering with family and friends. Even though the NFL has co-opted Thanksgiving and other holidays, does not mean the lack of turkey to eat. I was in charge of cooking the turkey this year, and my wife encouraged me to go out of my comfort zone and cook it the way our neighbors do. For some reason, I found myself out of my comfort zone a few times this past holiday weekend.

Turkey is the main staple of Thanksgiving, and it is a big business, such that almost $1 billion is spent on turkeys for Thanksgiving. That amount makes a great deal of sense when one considers that 88% of the US population will consume turkey on Thanksgiving. My wife's sister and her husband and their family are one of the 12% as they had smoked ribs for the feast. If they are concerned about tryptophan putting them to sleep, turkey gets a bad rap as many other foods have higher levels including some seeds. I have to realize that not everybody likes turkey as much as I do. 

Sleep factor
Source: WI State Journal

Minnesota is the top turkey producing state in the nation, hence when the bird flu strikes it can decimate a population and rapidly spread. What I find interesting is that of the top eight turkey producing states four are in a north-south line generally west of the Mississippi River (the river starts in central MN, but I will consider it west for the most part). These  four states are Minnesota, Iowa, Missouri and Arkansas. I am not sure what factor led to this, but it is not likely climate or geography since climate is more similar by latitude than longitude. It could be the spread of turkey innovation. I am surprised that Illinois is not a greater turkey producing state, since the Bear's organization seems to hire them on a regular basis. 

Topo turkey producing states
Source: WI State Journal

What was not regular was the way I cooked the turkey. For all of my previous turkey cooking years, which is many, I cook it at 325 degrees (f) and regularly baste the turkey. My plan was to start cooking it in our oven, and later in the morning haul it to Sun Prairie in our Nesco roaster, where dinner was being held, to complete the cooking of the big bird. In place of cooking at 325, the plan changed at the urging of my wife. I first cooked it at 500, for about 25 or 30 minutes, and then turned the heat down to 350. Our neighbors recipe also calls for the use of a turkey triangle, to cover the breast, but leave the legs, thighs and wings exposed. It was not unusual for me at 325 to let the turkey brown and then cover it. Starting the turkey at the time of a 325 oven, was part of the plan since I did not know how long the Nesco roaster, which I pre-heated would hold its heat. I covered it with a towel and blanket to retain the warmth on the half hour dive to Sun Prairie. I think it took less than twenty minutes to get back up to the 350. Not knowing how much it would cool down, or take to get back up, I kept my timing, even with the new recipe at 325. In the end, the turkey completed cooking faster than the time dinner was planned, so I turned it down to warm and it actually stayed it was moist for dinner, which is a good thing. My wife complained about the left overs we ate on Tuesday night as being too dry. Perhaps sitting in the fridge for five days affected its moisture level.

Thanksgiving was the first of two turkeys we had that weekend. We were invited to Golden Valley, MN, the main turkey producing state in the nation, for the weekend. We departed Friday and came home Sunday. Friday, my son had smoked a turkey in the cold 10 degree weather, and then warmed it up in the oven the next day. It was really quite good. I do not recall ever having had smoked turkey before. 

Thanksgiving Day facts
Source: WI State Journal

I have never been to a fancy Thai restaurant before(, but we treated our son and his wife on Friday for his Dec 4 birthday) at a restaurant of his choosing, and he chose Latitude 14 in Golden Valley. It was quite good, and I went out of my comfort zone and ordered food which had ingredients I never heard of, it was a pad Thai. I also, went out of my comfort zone and added fried tofu. Then there was eating cranberry sauce my youngest son had made with some type of home-grown Scotch pepper. I hardly ever eat cranberries and hot food makes trouble with my digestive system, but this was quite good and not too hot. It had just the right spice level for me, which may be too little for other palates. 

The oddest thing was a soft drink my son's boss at Best Buy had given him--a Jones soft drink that was to mimic turkey gravy. Those of us who have had to prep for a colonoscopy, agreed with the first commentor that it was like the colonoscopy prep drink commonly used, and to which you add Crystal light lemon flavor. 

This Thanksgiving was adventurous for me, at least in terms of food. After a pleasant time in Minneapolis, the cold weather put a damper on outdoor activity, which I am limited by bad feet anyway. Coming home was pretty uneventful, except for the 15 mile long backup just beyond the Hwy 12 exit at the Dells. The backup did not show up on our car or my wife's phone GPS before we got stuck in it. It turns out it was caused by an Asian brand vehicle traveling about 45 or 50 with a small young woman leaning forward, both hands tight on the steering wheel at 10 and 2, as if she was scared to death of driving. I have to think she was out of her comfort zone more than I. The backup was long and slow. I kind of get it, a woman that appeared out of her comfort zone in heavy traffic and made the traffic much much worse by going so slow. I do understand that someone may not wish to push their Korean nameplate car too much, especially in cold weather, knowing how little tribulations they can take, but 45 or 50 caused a significant back up, such the person would have been better off taking back roads. Years ago I saw simulations, by WISDOT, of what a slow vehicle can do to cause a traffic back up and this was a fit to that simulation. 

For some reason I do not get as nervous driving in Minneapolis/St Paul as I do down to Chicago. Driving to Chicago reminds me of the line in the movie Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade, when the Sean Connery character says to his son Indy, "My boy, we are pilgrims in an unholy land." I suppose it is the never ending traffic, or maybe the signs when I was younger of the Mayor's photo plastered all over the place.

Photo of former Chicago Mayor Richard Daily
"The Boss". Obtained for me in 1975 by my deceased 
Aunt and Uncle, Jeannie and Leo Sweeney

Turkey day began with me being out of my comfort zone in cooking and ended with a driver out of her comfort zone in I-90/94. I am still alive to live another day. To top it off, I only watched one half of a football game, preferring being with others than watching the Lions-Bears, or Cowboys game. Who would have thought that I would get out of my comfort realm on turkey day?