Church of the Nativity

It is 1,700 years old, has seen the ravages of time and man, has been the subject of territorial disputes between its varied custodians.  It is a World Heritage Site.  Even with all that, it has survived earthquakes, rebellions, and invasions.  It is one of Christendom's holiest sites, yet it is in an area predominantly occupied by Muslims and Jews.  Some believe its long history is miraculous.  The "it" is the Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem, West Bank, Palestine, which marks what tradition holds to be the birthplace of Jesus Christ. Roman Emperor Constantine's mother, St Helen, was the first to take charge of the Holy Land and place churches at sites where some of the most important New Testament events occurred. If you recall, until Constantine's conversion, the Roman Empire was pagan and would often blame Christians for negative events, such as when Nero blamed them for burning Rome.  Christian persecution was on-going.

Marker at the church.  Photo courtesy of MBH

The first church built at this site was in about 330 AD, at a location which Christian tradition had held that over three hundred years earlier Jesus was born.  The cave in which he was born is no longer a cave, but it is over this former cave that sits the Church.  Emperor Hadrian, in 135, in order to quell the growing number of Christians is thought to have constructed a temple to Adonis and plant a grove of trees to wipe out the memory of Jesus.  How do we know the location?  It is by faith and tradition of those who continued to recognize the site. Justin Martyr (100-165 AD) wrote in a work of the location of the cave outside of what was then the City of Bethlehem.  This was acknowledged by another writer a few decades later. St Jerome, who wrote the Vulgate next door, also noted the tradition marking this location. Tradition is an important marker to most all of the holy sites in this often disputed region of earth.   It is this tradition that St Helen was following when she began building churches to mark the locations of the important events of the Gospels.

Main Altar.  Below the altar is the small crypt marking the location of Christ's birth
An orthodox religious serve is in progress.  Photo Courtesy of MBH

The original Church was destroyed during the Samaritan revolt against the Jews in 529 AD.  The current structure was built by Emperor Justinian in 565 AD.  Unlike most other structures built for Christian worship, this one structure was not destroyed by the Persian invasion of 614.  Why was it not destroyed?  Because it has a depiction of the Three Magi, and they are in Persian dress. You know the Three Magi, they are of "We Three Kings" fame. A few hundred years later the Crusader's would make additional improvements to the building.  It may have been the same Magi painting that saved this Church from later Muslim invasions following the Crusades. The door of Humility, which is the primary entrance is so low that my even my mother-in-law would need to duck to enter.  But, humility has nothing to do with why the door is short. Overtime, in a response to counter the vices of man, custodians over altered the height of the door so that men on horseback could not enter the building.  

Interior shot

Time took its toll, although in the fourteenth century, England, France and Venice would undertake restoration following significant destruction in 1244 by the Turks. In the 18th century Greek Orthodox were primary caretakers of the facility.  Napoleon III, working with the ruling Ottoman's, would desire control for the Latin Church.  Opposing this move, Russia would send troops to force the Ottoman's to recognize some earlier treaties which they say gave the Orthodox religions control of the building.  It is thought that the theft of a silver star placed displayed above the grotto where Christ was born was stolen, and some say was one factor in the Crimean War.

Artwork on a column
Photo Courtesy of MBH

In 2002 a Roman Catholic church attached to the Church of the Nativity was entered by 50 armed militant Palestinians, desirous of sanctuary, in order to avoid capture by Israeli Defense forces. NOt recognizing the long-held claim of sanctuary, Israeli forces fired upon the Church.  A negotiated settlement would occur, and by mid-May the event was over.  But, some of the big stories involve monks at the church.  Overseen by three different arms of the same faith tradition, Armenian Orthodox, Greek Orthodox, and Roman Catholic, infighting among the groups may bring out the worst.  One event was when the Greek Orthodox, in taking down a ladder, encroached on Armenian Orthodox territory and a fight broke out.  

CFL hanging from light cord, notice the horizontal wire above
 the light bulb to which the cord is attached

It is this infighting that is partially responsible for the Church of the Nativity being in a rather decrepit state.  Each group is desirous of its proper share.  All needing to agree on major repairs. Large compact fluorescent light bulbs hang off crude electrical cords, almost like a trouble light, but without the cage.  On my first visit to the in April of this year, rain was literally falling on my head from a leak in the roof.  Lighting is poor, the roof needs obvious work, and old paintings need restoration.  I recently read that some restoration work is starting, in order to prevent water damage to the mosaic floor of the original Church. While it certainly looks its age, hopefully the roof restoration will lead work to inside the building as well, and better relations among its custodians.

Original mosaic floor, below current floor 

Note:  Photos not credited were taken by the author of this post.  All photos were taken in April 2013.